🇦🇷 Your Bespoke 3-Day Argentine Itinerary: The Passion of Buenos Aires

A “free” walking tour of the city center is an excellent way to get your bearings and understand the significance of Plaza de Mayo and its surrounding buildings. A local guide can provide fascinating context on Argentine history, from its independence to the Peronist era and beyond. While you can’t enter the Casa Rosada on weekdays, guided tours are often available on weekends and must be booked online in advance. Don’t miss a visit to the Metropolitan Cathedral, which houses the tomb of General San Martín, Argentina’s liberator.

In San Telmo, the main activity is to simply get lost in its charming streets. If your visit falls on a Sunday, the Feria de San Telmo (San Telmo street market) is an absolute must-do, stretching for many blocks and featuring antiques, crafts, and street performers. On other days, the permanent indoor San Telmo Market is a great place to explore, offering a mix of antique stalls and fantastic food vendors. A visit to the historic Café Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo is essential for a taste of old-world Buenos Aires charm.

Young Travelers: After exploring San Telmo’s antique shops, discover its lively backpacker scene and street art. In the evening, find a local “milonga” (a neighborhood tango dance hall) for a more authentic and less touristy tango experience than a formal show.
Seniors: The Plaza de Mayo area is flat and walkable. Consider a city bus tour to see the main sights comfortably. San Telmo’s cobblestones can be uneven, so take your time. A relaxing coffee and “medialunas” (croissants) at a historic cafe like Café Tortoni is a perfect way to rest and soak in the atmosphere.
Families: The Plaza de Mayo is a large open space for kids. In San Telmo, the street performers at the market (on Sundays) are often a big hit with children. Look for the quirky Mafalda statue on the corner of Chile and Defensa streets for a fun photo opportunity.
With a Disability: The Plaza de Mayo and its surrounding government buildings are largely accessible. Modern city buses are equipped with ramps. While the historic cobblestones of San Telmo can be challenging, the main market area is on a single level. Café Tortoni is accessible.

Luxury Travel: Hire a private political historian for a bespoke tour of the Plaza de Mayo, followed by a private tour of the opulent Colón Theatre, one of the world’s best opera houses. Enjoy a gourmet lunch with wine pairings at a high-end “parrilla” (steakhouse) in the nearby Puerto Madero district. In the evening, attend a performance at the Colón Theatre.

Adventure & Nature: For an urban adventure, rent a bicycle and explore the nearby Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, a large nature reserve right on the edge of the city. It offers a surprising escape into nature with great birdwatching and views of the Río de la Plata, providing a green contrast to the historic city center.

For a stay steeped in history and luxury, the InterContinental Buenos Aires is a classic choice, located on the historic Avenida de Mayo and offering five-star comfort. The Faena Hotel Buenos Aires in the nearby Puerto Madero district offers a Philippe Starck-designed world of fantasy and glamour, complete with a spa and a famous tango show.

A fantastic boutique option in the heart of San Telmo is the L’Hotel Casur Telmo, which offers stylish rooms and a charming courtyard pool. For great value and a modern, social atmosphere, the Selina San Telmo is a popular choice, offering a mix of private rooms and dorms, a coworking space, and a vibrant community feel.

Buenos Aires is a city that operates late. Locals, known as “Porteños,” typically eat dinner around 9 or 10 pm. If you show up at a restaurant at 7 pm, you will likely be the only one there. Embrace the local rhythm by having a “merienda” (a late afternoon snack, often coffee and pastries) around 5 pm to tide you over. This also means that nightlife doesn’t get started until well after midnight.

Be aware of your surroundings in crowded areas like the San Telmo market and Plaza de Mayo. Pickpocketing can be an issue, so keep your valuables secure and out of sight. It’s best to use a crossbody bag worn in front of you. When taking a taxi, it’s advisable to use a radio taxi that you call in advance or a ride-sharing app, rather than hailing one on the street, especially at night.

Porteños are known for their style, so a smart-casual look is the best way to blend in. For a day of exploring the historic city center, comfortable yet stylish walking shoes are essential. You’ll be walking on a lot of cobblestones. A pair of smart trousers, dark jeans, or a skirt paired with a nice top or a polo shirt is a perfect choice. In summer (December-February), lightweight and breathable fabrics are key, but locals tend to avoid wearing shorts in the city center.

A light jacket or sweater is a good idea even in summer, as indoor spaces are often air-conditioned. In the cooler months (June-August), you will need a warmer coat. A stylish scarf is a popular accessory for both men and women year-round. The overall look is polished but comfortable, suitable for a day of walking that might end with a coffee at an elegant historic cafe.

The area around the city center offers some of the most historic and beloved restaurants in the city. For a classic porteño “bodegón” (a traditional neighborhood eatery), head to El Obrero in the nearby La Boca neighborhood (a short taxi ride from San Telmo) for huge portions of delicious, unpretentious food. In San Telmo, a must-visit is a traditional “parrilla” (steakhouse). La Brigada is a famous, if touristy, option known for its incredibly tender steaks that the waiters cut with a spoon.

For a taste of history, having a coffee and a “submarino” (a glass of hot milk served with a bar of chocolate to melt inside) at Café Tortoni is non-negotiable. The San Telmo Market is also a fantastic place for lunch, with many modern food stalls offering everything from fresh empanadas and choripán (chorizo sandwich) to craft beer and gourmet coffee.

The best way to explore the areas on today’s itinerary is on foot. The Plaza de Mayo, Avenida de Mayo, and the San Telmo neighborhood are all connected and are best appreciated at a walking pace. This allows you to soak in the incredible architecture and vibrant street life. However, Buenos Aires is a very large city, so for longer distances, you’ll need other options.

The city has an excellent public transport system, including the “Subte” (subway) and numerous bus lines (“colectivos”). To use them, you will need to purchase a “SUBE” card from a subway station or a “kiosco” (kiosk) and load it with credit. The Subte is the fastest way to travel long distances. Taxis and ride-sharing services like Uber and Cabify are also widely available and are a convenient and safe way to get around.

In La Boca, the main attraction is walking down the Caminito and soaking in the colorful atmosphere. Be aware that this is a very tourist-focused area. For a more authentic experience, consider a visit to the nearby Fundación Proa, an excellent contemporary art museum with a fantastic rooftop cafe overlooking the old port. A tour of the legendary La Bombonera, the home stadium of the Boca Juniors football team, is a must for any sports fan.

Palermo is best explored on foot. A guided street art tour of Palermo Soho can reveal some incredible large-scale murals that you might otherwise miss. The main activity here is to simply wander, browse the independent designer boutiques, and relax at a stylish cafe. Don’t miss a visit to the MALBA (Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires) for a superb collection of modern art from across the continent. A walk through the beautiful Bosques de Palermo (Palermo Woods), including the Rosedal (rose garden), is a perfect way to spend a sunny afternoon.

Young Travelers: Palermo is your hub for nightlife and fashion. Explore the craft breweries and burger joints in Palermo Hollywood. On weekends, the Plaza Serrano in Palermo Soho fills with a lively street market. La Boca offers incredible photo opportunities.
Seniors: La Boca’s Caminito is a short, flat walk. A taxi is the best way to travel between La Boca and Palermo. In Palermo, enjoy a leisurely stroll through the beautiful and peaceful Botanical Garden or the Japanese Garden. The area’s many cafes offer perfect spots for a relaxing break.
Families: The bright colors of La Boca are very stimulating for children. In Palermo, the vast parks are a fantastic place for kids to run around. The Galileo Galilei Planetarium and the former city zoo, now an “eco-park,” are great family-friendly attractions within the Bosques de Palermo.
With a Disability: The Caminito is a pedestrian street and is accessible, though it can be crowded. The Fundación Proa museum is modern and accessible. Palermo’s sidewalks are generally well-maintained. The MALBA and the main paths of the Bosques de Palermo are wheelchair-friendly.

Luxury Travel: Hire a private guide and driver for a seamless day exploring both neighborhoods. In Palermo, arrange for a private shopping tour with a local designer or a private “asado” (barbecue) cooking class in a closed-door restaurant. In the evening, enjoy a world-class cocktail at one of Palermo Soho’s exclusive speakeasy bars, like Frank’s or Florería Atlántico.

Adventure & Nature: The best way to experience the vast Bosques de Palermo is by renting a bike or rollerblades. You can spend hours exploring the park’s many lakes, gardens, and monuments. For an urban adventure, go on a dedicated street art tour that covers both the raw, political graffiti of La Boca and the more stylized, artistic murals of Palermo, providing a fascinating insight into the city’s public art scene.

For a stay in the heart of trendy Palermo, the BE Jardín Escondido by Coppola is a luxurious boutique hotel (formerly owned by Francis Ford Coppola) with a lush garden and pool, offering a tranquil urban oasis. The Mine Hotel Boutique is another highly-rated choice in Palermo Soho, known for its stylish design and central courtyard pool.

A fantastic and more affordable option is the Art Factory Palermo, a vibrant and artistic hostel with both private rooms and dorms, perfect for social travelers. The L’Hotel Palermo provides excellent value with charming, classic decor and a lovely garden, placing you in a quiet yet central part of the neighborhood.

La Boca is a neighborhood that requires some caution. The main tourist area of Caminito is heavily policed and generally safe during the day. However, it is strongly advised not to wander into the surrounding residential streets, as muggings can be an issue. It is best to take a taxi or Uber directly to and from the Caminito area and to visit only during daylight hours. Do not walk to La Boca from other neighborhoods.

Palermo is a very large “barrio” that is subdivided into smaller areas like Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, and Palermo Chico. Each has a slightly different vibe. Palermo Soho is the heart of the shopping and cafe scene, while Palermo Hollywood is known for its concentration of restaurants, bars, and media companies. It’s a great area to explore on foot, but be prepared for a lot of walking if you want to see it all.

For a day of contrasts, a versatile, smart-casual outfit is your best bet. In La Boca, the atmosphere is very casual and tourist-focused. In Palermo, the vibe is much more chic and fashionable. A pair of stylish sneakers or comfortable flats is essential for all the walking you’ll be doing. A stylish pair of jeans, a dress, or smart trousers will allow you to fit in perfectly in both neighborhoods. In summer, opt for lightweight, natural fabrics.

As Palermo is the city’s trendiest neighborhood, you’ll see a lot of great street style. This is a good day to wear a slightly more fashionable outfit. A sun hat and sunglasses are important for walking through the sunny parks of Palermo. A crossbody bag is a practical choice for keeping your hands free for taking photos in La Boca and for browsing the boutiques in Palermo.

While La Boca is more of a sightseeing destination than a culinary one, you can find some classic “cantinas” that serve simple, traditional Italian-Argentine food. A more reliable option is to have lunch in the nearby San Telmo or to wait until you get to Palermo. Palermo, on the other hand, is one of the city’s top dining destinations. For one of the best “parrillas” in the city (and the world), try to get a reservation at Don Julio in Palermo Soho (book months in advance) or La Cabrera.

Palermo is also famous for its brunch scene and its excellent specialty coffee shops. For a fantastic brunch, head to Ninina Bakery or Oui Oui. The neighborhood is also a hub for international cuisine and innovative closed-door restaurants (“puertas cerradas”). A must-try local treat is the ice cream. Argentina is famous for its “helado,” which is similar to Italian gelato. Rapanui or Cadore are fantastic places to try it.

The best way to travel between the very different neighborhoods of La Boca and Palermo is by taxi or a ride-sharing service like Uber or Cabify. They are located on opposite sides of the city, and a direct taxi ride is the safest, fastest, and most convenient option. Public transport connections between the two are not direct and can be very time-consuming.

Once you are in Palermo, the best way to explore its various sub-neighborhoods is on foot. The area is large but flat and very pleasant to walk around. You can also use the city’s “Ecobici” bike-share system to cover more ground, especially in the vast Bosques de Palermo. The Subte (Line D, Plaza Italia station) provides excellent access to the park area of Palermo from other parts of the city.

A guided tour of the Recoleta Cemetery is highly recommended. The cemetery is vast and maze-like, and a guide can lead you to the most significant tombs (including Evita’s) while sharing the fascinating and often dramatic stories of the people buried there. After the cemetery, a visit to the nearby El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore is a must. Housed in a beautifully converted historic theater, it’s a breathtaking sight.

For the evening, it is essential to book your tango show in advance. There are many options available, from large, spectacular shows to more intimate, traditional performances. Many shows offer a package that includes a three-course dinner and wine, as well as transportation from your hotel. For a truly immersive experience, consider taking a beginner’s tango lesson in the afternoon before you go to the show. This will give you a much deeper appreciation for the art form you will witness later.

Young Travelers: After the cemetery, explore the surrounding Recoleta area, which has many university buildings and a lively student presence. Instead of a dinner show, consider going to a more traditional “milonga” (tango dance hall) in a neighborhood like San Telmo or Almagro to see locals dance with incredible passion.
Seniors: Recoleta Cemetery has paved paths and is flat, making it an enjoyable walk. El Ateneo Grand Splendid has an elevator to its upper floors and a cafe on the former stage, which is a lovely place for a rest. A dinner and tango show with included transportation is a very comfortable and enjoyable way to spend the evening.
Families: While the cemetery might be of limited interest to very young children, older kids can be fascinated by the elaborate tombs. El Ateneo has a children’s section in the back. Some tango shows offer matinee performances or are more family-friendly than others, so it’s worth checking in advance.
With a Disability: Recoleta Cemetery is largely accessible, with paved pathways between the mausoleums. El Ateneo Grand Splendid is fully accessible with ramps and an elevator. When booking a tango show, it is important to contact the venue directly to confirm wheelchair accessibility, as many are housed in older, historic buildings.

Luxury Travel: Arrange for a private tour of the cemetery with a focus on its art and architecture. Follow this with a visit to the nearby Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. For your evening, book a VIP package at one of the top tango shows, like Rojo Tango at the Faena Hotel, which offers an exclusive and intimate experience with gourmet dining and premium wines. This is the most glamorous and high-end tango experience in the city.

Adventure & Nature: For a final dose of green space, explore the parks surrounding the cemetery, such as the Plaza Francia, which hosts a large arts and crafts fair on weekends. For an adventure in cultural immersion, take a “fileteado” painting workshop. This is the traditional, highly stylized art form used to decorate signs and vehicles in Buenos Aires, and learning about it provides a unique and hands-on connection to the city’s visual culture.

For the ultimate in luxury in Recoleta, the Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires is an opulent choice, consisting of a restored palace and a modern tower connected by beautiful gardens. The Alvear Palace Hotel is a legendary landmark of Belle Époque grandeur, offering timeless elegance and impeccable service.

The Meliá Recoleta Plaza Hotel is a fantastic boutique option with a rooftop pool and classic decor, located in a prime part of the neighborhood. For a more affordable but still stylish choice, the Ayres de Recoleta Libertad offers spacious apartment-style rooms, providing great value and comfort in this elegant district.

When you visit Recoleta Cemetery, it’s a good idea to buy a map at the entrance, as it is very easy to get lost in the labyrinth of tombs. Finding Eva Perón’s tomb (under her family name, Duarte) is a top priority for most visitors, and it is usually marked on the maps and has a crowd around it. However, don’t just see Evita’s grave; take the time to appreciate the incredible variety of architectural styles and the poignant sculptures throughout the cemetery.

When choosing a tango show, be aware that there is a wide range of styles and prices. The more expensive shows in venues like Faena Hotel (Rojo Tango) or Esquina Carlos Gardel are spectacular, Broadway-style productions. Mid-range shows like those at El Querandí or La Ventana offer a great balance of impressive dancing and a more traditional atmosphere. Do some research and watch some videos online to find a show that best fits your style and budget.

For a day exploring the elegant Recoleta neighborhood, a smart-casual outfit is most appropriate. This is one of the city’s most upscale districts, so a polished look will help you blend in. A pair of smart trousers, a stylish skirt, or a dress paired with comfortable but elegant shoes or flats is a great choice. You will still be doing a lot of walking in the cemetery, so comfort remains important.

For the evening tango show, it is a great opportunity to dress up. While there is usually no strict dress code, you will find that most attendees are in smart to formal evening wear. A cocktail dress, a stylish jumpsuit, or an elegant skirt and top are perfect for women. For men, a collared shirt and smart trousers are recommended; a jacket is a nice touch but not always necessary. Dressing up adds to the glamour and sense of occasion for this special farewell night.

The Recoleta neighborhood is home to many classic and upscale dining options. For a traditional afternoon tea or a light lunch in a historic setting, La Biela is a famous cafe with a large terrace overlooking the park next to the cemetery. It has been a meeting point for politicians and artists for decades. For excellent French cuisine, which is very popular in this neighborhood, try Fervor for great seafood and steaks in a classic bistro setting.

Most tango shows include a three-course dinner as part of their package. The quality of the food can vary, but it is generally of a good standard, featuring classic Argentine dishes like steak and, of course, Malbec wine. If you choose a show-only option, you can have dinner beforehand in the neighborhood of the show. Many of the best tango houses are located in San Telmo or Abasto, offering many fantastic dining options nearby.

The Recoleta neighborhood is very pleasant and safe to explore on foot. The cemetery, the bookstore, and the surrounding parks and avenues are all within easy walking distance of each other. To get to Recoleta from other neighborhoods like Palermo or the city center, the Subte is a good option (Line H to Las Heras station, or Line D to Pueyrredón station, followed by a walk).

Taxis and ride-sharing services like Uber and Cabify are an excellent and convenient way to get around for your evening plans. Most tango show packages include hotel pick-up and drop-off, which is a very convenient and safe option that takes all the stress out of your evening transportation, allowing you to relax and enjoy the show.

Argentina’s vast and stunning landscapes provide incredible settings for wellness. You can find yoga retreats and spiritual journeys in the serene mountains of Patagonia, the dramatic landscapes of the Northwest near Salta, and the peaceful hills of Córdoba. These retreats often combine yoga and meditation with activities like horseback riding, trekking, and wine tasting, offering a holistic experience that connects you to both nature and the rich local culture, providing a deep sense of rejuvenation and escape.

Packing for Buenos Aires requires smart-casual attire. Porteños are stylish, so comfortable yet fashionable clothing will help you blend in. Comfortable walking shoes are the most important item. Pack layers, as the weather can be variable. In summer (Dec-Feb), it is hot and humid, so bring lightweight clothing. In winter (Jun-Aug), a warm coat, sweater, and scarf are necessary. A universal power adapter (Type I plug is used in Argentina) and a portable power bank are essential. Also, bring any prescription medications you need, as specific brands may not be available.

Buenos Aires is famous for its high-quality leather goods. You can find beautiful leather jackets, bags, and shoes at excellent prices, especially in the shops along Calle Murillo in the Villa Crespo neighborhood. Palermo Soho is the hub for independent designer boutiques and trendy fashion. For antiques, the San Telmo Fair on Sundays is a must. A classic souvenir is a “mate” gourd and “bombilla” (metal straw) for drinking Argentina’s national beverage.

The official currency is the Argentine Peso (ARS). The country has a complex economic situation with a high inflation rate. It is often advantageous for tourists to bring US dollars and exchange them for pesos at the “blue dollar” rate, which is significantly better than the official rate. It’s best to research the current situation before you travel. Credit cards are accepted in many places, but cash is king, especially for smaller purchases.

The official language is Spanish. In the tourism industry and among younger people in Buenos Aires, English is quite common. However, in smaller shops, taxis, and outside the main tourist areas, you will find that Spanish is necessary. Learning a few basic Spanish phrases will be very helpful and appreciated.

Buenos Aires is generally safe for tourists, but like any large city, it requires awareness. Petty crime, such as pickpocketing and bag snatching, can be an issue in crowded areas and on public transport. It’s important to be vigilant, not to flash expensive items, and to use reputable radio taxis or ride-sharing apps at night.

Buenos Aires has a good public transport system consisting of the Subte (subway) and “colectivos” (buses). You will need a SUBE card to use it. For convenience and safety, especially at night, taxis and ride-sharing apps like Uber and Cabify are widely available and affordable.

In restaurants, a tip of around 10% in cash is customary for good service and is generally not included in the bill. It is not necessary to tip taxi drivers, but it is common to round up the fare. Small tips for hotel porters and tour guides are also appreciated.

The best times to visit are during the spring (September to November) and autumn (March to May). The weather is mild and pleasant, and the city is beautiful with jacaranda trees in bloom in the spring and autumn colors. Summer can be very hot and humid, while winter is mild but can be chilly and damp.

Citizens of many countries, including the USA, Canada, the UK, and most of Europe, can enter Argentina for tourism for up to 90 days without a visa. It is always best to check the specific visa requirements for your nationality before your trip.

An “asado” is the traditional Argentine barbecue, but it is also a social ritual. It involves slow-cooking various cuts of beef and other meats over hot coals. It is a cornerstone of Argentine family life and a must-try culinary experience.

Argentina uses the Type I plug, which has two flat, angled pins and a vertical grounding pin. This is the same plug type used in Australia. The standard voltage is 220V. You will need a universal travel adapter.

Porteños keep late hours. Lunch is typically between 1 pm and 3 pm. Dinner rarely starts before 9 pm, with 10 pm being a very common time to sit down for a meal. Bars get busy after 11 pm, and nightclubs often don’t get going until 2 am.