Here is the bottom line: The Maroons of Accompong are a sovereign nation of people within Jamaica who descend from escaped slaves. They fought the British army using guerrilla warfare until they forced the British to sign a peace treaty in 1738—decades before the American Revolution. Today, you can visit their town in the mountains to see the actual treaty site, but you must respect their unique laws and leadership.
In my 15 years as a travel consultant, I’ve sent many clients to the beaches of Negril or Montego Bay. But the ones who come back with the most powerful stories are the ones who took the bumpy ride up to Accompong. This isn’t a “tourist trap” with gift shops selling bobbleheads. This is living history.
If you want to understand the spirit of resistance in the Caribbean, you have to look beyond the all-inclusive resorts. Let’s talk about how to visit this place safely and why it matters.
To understand Accompong, you have to understand the landscape. The Cockpit Country is a geological fortress. It is a limestone plateau riddled with conical hills and deep depressions (cockpits), making it nearly impossible for traditional armies to traverse. When the British captured Jamaica from the Spanish in 1655, many enslaved Africans escaped into these hills. They became known as the Maroons, a word derived from the Spanish ‘Cimarron,’ meaning wild or untamed.
These weren’t just runaways hiding in caves; they were highly organized military units. The Windward Maroons held the East, and the Leeward Maroons, led by the brilliant tactician Captain Cudjoe, held the West. I often tell my clients that Cudjoe is one of the most underrated military leaders in history. He used the terrain to his advantage. His fighters would camouflage themselves in the bush, looking like trees (a tactic known as “ambush”), and wait for the British Redcoats to march into the narrow valleys. The British, in their bright uniforms and rigid formations, didn’t stand a chance.
The First Maroon War dragged on for years. It drained the British treasury and humiliated their military command. The Maroons used the “Abeng” (a cow horn) to communicate over long distances, signaling troop movements that the British couldn’t decode. By 1738, the British realized they could not win militarily. They had to negotiate. This is a crucial point: The British Empire, the superpower of the day, was forced to sue for peace by a group of escaped slaves.
The Treaty of 1738 was signed under a silk cotton tree, which you can still see today (though it’s actually a “Kindah” tree). The terms were significant. The Maroons were granted 1,500 acres of land and total freedom. They were recognized as a sovereign entity. However, history is complex, and we have to be honest about the controversy too. As part of the treaty, the Maroons agreed to help the British capture future runaways and return them to plantations. This “blood debt” is a difficult part of the history to reconcile, but it was a survival choice made by Cudjoe to secure the safety of his own people.
Accompong was named after Cudjoe’s brother, who founded the town. While other Maroon settlements eventually clashed again with the British (the Second Maroon War), Accompong remained neutral and maintained its autonomy. That autonomy exists to this day. They have their own leader, called the Colonel, and they pay no land tax to the Jamaican government. It is a state within a state.
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Get Your Detailed Travel Itinerary Now!Getting to Accompong is an adventure in itself. I remember the first time I went; I thought my rental car suspension was going to snap. The roads leading up into the Cockpit Country are narrow, winding, and often riddled with potholes. This is why I always recommend hiring a local driver who knows the terrain. If you are coming from Montego Bay, it is about a two-hour drive, but it feels longer because of the elevation gain and the road conditions.
When you arrive, you aren’t entering a standard tourist attraction. You are entering a town where people live, work, and farm. You will likely be stopped at the entrance to pay an entry fee, which goes towards the community fund. You absolutely need a guide. Do not try to wander the sacred sites alone; it is considered disrespectful. A local guide will take you to the Museum, which houses artifacts like Cudjoe’s knife and the original Abengs.
The highlight for most is the walk to the Peace Cave and the Kindah Tree. This is sacred ground. The silence there is heavy. You can feel the weight of what happened in 1738. I sent a family from Canada there last month, and they told me that standing under that tree was more impactful than any museum they visited in Europe. It connects you to the struggle for freedom in a visceral way.
You will also meet the people. The Maroons are proud of their heritage. They are generally very welcoming to visitors who come with respect. You might hear the drumming, which is specific to their culture—it’s different from the Reggae beat you hear on the coast. It’s ancestral. The food is also unique; try the jerk pork here if you can. The Maroons claim to have invented “jerking” meat as a way to preserve wild boar while on the run, cooking it over smokeless fires to avoid detection.
However, keep your wits about you regarding “extras.” While the town is safe, there can be some pressure to buy herbs or crafts. A simple, firm “no thank you” works fine. Also, be aware of the political climate. The leadership (the Colonel) is elected, and sometimes there are internal disputes about governance. It usually doesn’t affect tourists, but it’s good to be aware that this is a functioning political entity, not a theme park.
This is the number one question I get asked by clients planning a trip to the interior of Jamaica. The short answer is yes, Accompong is generally very safe for tourists. In fact, crime rates involving tourists in Maroon communities are significantly lower than in the bustling urban centers like Kingston or even parts of Montego Bay. This is largely due to the community structure. The Maroons police themselves. They have a strong sense of community honor, and harming a guest would bring shame upon the town and is not tolerated.
However, “safe” doesn’t mean you should abandon common sense. You are visiting a rural community that is relatively poor compared to Western standards. Flashy jewelry, expensive watches, and large wads of cash should be kept out of sight. I always advise my clients to dress modestly and blend in as much as possible. You want to look like a respectful student of history, not a walking ATM.
Another aspect of safety is physical safety. The terrain is rugged. The paths to the Peace Cave or the river can be slippery and steep. If you have mobility issues, you need to be upfront with your guide before you start walking. There are no guardrails, no paved handicap ramps, and no liability insurance waivers to sign. You are in nature. Wear proper footwear—flip-flops are a terrible idea here. I once had a client twist an ankle because they wore slides; it ruined the rest of their trip.
Socially, the safety comes from respect. If you enter the town with an attitude of entitlement, you might face coldness or hostility. If you enter with humility, asking for permission before taking photos of people and engaging in conversation, you will be under the protection of the community. The “hustle” can happen—people trying to sell you roots, potions, or guided tours—but it is rarely aggressive. If you feel uncomfortable, find a senior member of the community or stick close to your official guide.
Lastly, marijuana (ganja) is part of the culture here, perhaps even more so than in the rest of Jamaica due to its sacramental use. You may be offered it. If you don’t partake, a polite refusal is all that is needed. You won’t be forced. If you do partake, remember that the local strains can be much stronger than what you might be used to back home. Overindulging can make you vulnerable, so stay sharp.
Logistics are my specialty, and getting to Accompong requires a bit of planning. It is located in St. Elizabeth parish, bordering Trelawny. If you are staying in Montego Bay, you are looking at a drive of roughly 35 to 40 miles (about 60km), but do not let the short distance fool you. This drive will take you close to two hours, maybe more if it has rained recently or if there is construction.
The most common route is to head south out of Montego Bay towards Reading, then turn inland on the B6 road. You’ll pass through Anchovy and Montpelier. The road conditions deteriorate the further inland you go. We are talking about potholes that can swallow a small tire, narrow switchbacks with blind corners, and local taxi drivers who drive like they are in a Formula 1 race.
Because of this, I strongly advise against renting a car and driving yourself unless you are an extremely confident driver with experience in developing countries. I have seen too many tourists get flat tires in areas with no cell service, or simply get lost because GPS signals in the Cockpit Country are unreliable. Google Maps will sometimes try to send you down a goat path that hasn’t been used by cars in twenty years.
The best option is to hire a private driver or join a tour group. A private driver from Montego Bay will cost you between $120 and $180 USD for the day, depending on the vehicle and your negotiation skills. This is worth every penny. The driver knows where the potholes are, they know the shortcuts, and most importantly, they act as a cultural buffer. When you arrive in Accompong with a Jamaican driver, you are immediately received differently than if you roll up in a rental car looking confused.
If you are on a strict budget, you can take a route taxi. You would take a taxi from the Montego Bay bus park to Maggotty. From Maggotty, you have to find a local taxi willing to go up the hill to Accompong. This is an adventure. You will be squeezed into a sedan with four or five other people. It is very cheap (a few dollars), but it is not comfortable, and you are on their schedule, not yours. I only recommend this for seasoned backpackers who want the raw experience.
If you can time your trip for early January, you are in for a spectacle. January 6th is the most important day on the Accompong calendar. It marks the signing of the Peace Treaty with the British in 1738 and is also celebrated as the birthday of Captain Cudjoe. This is not just a small town fair; it is a massive cultural pilgrimage that attracts Maroons from all over Jamaica and the diaspora, as well as thousands of tourists.
The day starts early with traditional rituals that are closed to the public. The elders and the Colonel go to the sacred grounds to pour libations and communicate with the ancestors. This is a solemn part of the day, ensuring that the spirits are pleased with the community. As a tourist, you won’t see this part, and you shouldn’t try to intrude. It respects the sanctity of their belief system.
By mid-morning, the town transforms. The streets fill with vendors selling food, crafts, and roots tonic. The sound of the drums—the Abeng and the Gumbe—begins to echo through the hills. This drumming is hypnotic and serves as the heartbeat of the festival. You will see traditional Maroon dancing, which is distinct from other Caribbean dance forms; it is more grounded, earthy, and martial in nature, reflecting their warrior history.
A key part of the celebration is the reenactment of the war. Men dress in leaves and bush (camouflage), carrying spears and mock muskets, recreating the ambush tactics used by Cudjoe. It is a powerful piece of street theater that brings the history books to life. Seeing them emerge from the bush really drives home how impossible it was for the British Redcoats to fight them.
Food is everywhere. You must try the traditional unsalted pork. According to tradition, when the Maroons were fighting, they couldn’t use salt because it caused thirst, and water was scarce or dangerous to access during battle. Today, they cook pork the same way on this specific day as an act of remembrance. It is seasoned with peppers and herbs, but no salt. It’s an acquired taste for some, but culturally essential.
This is a fascinating question and the source of much legal and cultural debate. The short answer is yes, they are distinct, both culturally and politically. When I explain this to clients, I compare it somewhat to Native American reservations in the US, though the legal framework is different. The Maroons view themselves as a sovereign nation within Jamaica.
Politically, this distinction is based on the 1738 Treaty. The Maroons of Accompong maintain that the treaty grants them autonomy that supersedes Jamaican law in certain areas. They elect their own Colonel (currently Colonel Richard Currie at the time of writing, though this changes), who acts as the head of state for the town. They have their own council. Residents of Accompong do not pay land taxes to the Jamaican government. This is a major point of pride and a tangible assertion of their sovereignty.
Culturally, the distinction is rooted in their African heritage. Because they escaped slavery early and isolated themselves in the mountains, they retained more direct West African traditions (specifically Akan/Coromantee from modern-day Ghana) than the enslaved populations who remained on the plantations. Their dialect, often called “Kromanti,” is used in religious ceremonies and is distinct from standard Jamaican Patois, containing many African words that have been lost elsewhere.
Their herbal medicine knowledge is also distinct. The Maroons had to survive in the bush without doctors. They know the medicinal properties of every plant in the Cockpit Country. This knowledge has been passed down orally for centuries. When you talk to an elder in Accompong, their worldview is often shaped by this direct lineage of resistance and self-reliance.
However, they are also integrated. They carry Jamaican passports, use Jamaican currency, and vote in Jamaican national elections. The relationship between the Maroon state and the Jamaican government is often tense, with disputes over land rights and jurisdiction. As a visitor, you are witnessing a living political experiment that has lasted nearly 300 years.
Packing for a day trip to Accompong requires a different mindset than packing for the beach. You are heading into a rainforest environment in the mountains. The weather here can change rapidly. It is often cooler than the coast, and rain showers can come out of nowhere. I always tell my clients to dress in layers. A light rain jacket is a must-have item in your day pack.
Footwear is critical. Do not wear flip-flops, sandals, or heels. You need closed-toe sneakers or hiking boots with good grip. The ground is uneven, red dirt, which turns into slick mud when it rains. If you plan on hiking to the river or the more remote caves, you need shoes that you don’t mind getting dirty. The red clay of St. Elizabeth stains everything it touches.
Cash is King. There are no credit card machines in Accompong. There are no ATMs. You need to bring enough Jamaican Dollars (JMD) or US Dollars (USD) to cover your entry fee, guide tip, lunch, and any souvenirs. Small bills are better. If you try to pay for a $500 JMD herbal drink with a $50 USD bill, the vendor likely won’t have change. Plan to bring about $100-$150 USD per person in mixed denominations to be safe and cover all bases.
Insect Repellent. You are in the bush. Mosquitoes and “no-see-ums” (sand flies) can be active, especially if you go into the shaded areas under the canopy. A bottle of DEET or a strong natural repellent will save you from being miserable. Sunscreen is also necessary, as the sun at higher altitudes burns faster, even if it feels cooler.
Gifts/Donations. This is optional but appreciated. If you are visiting the school or the community center, bringing school supplies (pencils, notebooks) is a great way to give back. It is much better than just handing out cash to children. If you want to show respect to the Colonel or elders, a small bottle of rum (White Overproof Rum) is the traditional offering. It is used for libations and is a sign of respect in the Maroon culture.
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