IMPORTANT TRAVEL ADVISORY
Travel to Papua New Guinea requires a high degree of caution. Many foreign governments advise their citizens to exercise a high degree of caution across the country and recommend reconsidering the need to travel to certain regions, including the Highlands and the area around the Porgera mine, due to high levels of serious crime, civil unrest, and tribal fighting.
Violent crime, including carjacking, armed robbery, and sexual assault, is a significant problem in urban areas, particularly in Port Moresby, Lae, and Mount Hagen. It is strongly recommended to travel with a reputable tour operator, arrange secure transportation, and stay in secure accommodation. Independent travel is not advised for first-time visitors. Always check your government’s latest travel advisories before planning any trip.
🇵🇬 Papua New Guinea Travel Guide
Table of Contents
1) Destination Overview
Papua New Guinea (PNG) is, without exaggeration, one of the last true frontiers of adventure travel on Earth. Occupying the eastern half of the island of New Guinea, it is a land of staggering diversity, both in its landscapes and its cultures. This is a destination that defies easy categorization, a place where rugged, jungle-clad mountain ranges give way to steamy lowland rivers, active volcanoes, and some of the most pristine coral reefs in the world. PNG is not a destination for the casual tourist seeking a relaxing beach holiday; it is a profound, challenging, and endlessly fascinating journey into a world that remains largely untouched by globalization. For the intrepid traveler, it offers an unparalleled opportunity to witness ancient traditions, explore remote wilderness, and experience a level of authenticity that has vanished from most of the planet.
The country’s most remarkable feature is its cultural landscape. PNG is famously the most linguistically diverse country in the world, home to over 850 distinct indigenous languages, spoken by hundreds of different tribes. Many of these communities, particularly in the remote Highlands and along the Sepik River, have maintained their traditional ways of life for centuries. This is a land where wealth is still measured in pigs and kina shells, where elaborate tribal ceremonies (“sing-sings”) showcase breathtaking body decorations and feathered headdresses, and where ancestral stories are passed down through intricate carvings and oral traditions. A trip to PNG is a chance to step into a living anthropological museum, offering a humbling and eye-opening perspective on the diversity of human culture.
The natural environment of Papua New Guinea is as dramatic as its culture. The spine of the country is a massive central mountain range, the Highlands, which includes Mount Wilhelm, the highest peak in Oceania. This region is a land of lush valleys, cloud forests, and a unique array of flora and fauna, including many species of the spectacular birds-of-paradise. The mighty Sepik River, one of the world’s great river systems, snakes its way through the northern lowlands, acting as a vital artery for the villages that line its banks. The coastal and island regions, such as New Britain and New Ireland, offer world-class diving and snorkeling, with vibrant coral gardens, dramatic drop-offs, and a wealth of WWII wrecks that have become thriving artificial reefs.
Traveling in PNG requires careful planning, a spirit of adventure, and a significant budget. The logistical challenges are immense, with very few roads connecting the major regions, making domestic air travel essential. Safety is also a major consideration that must be taken seriously. However, for those who are prepared to meet these challenges, the rewards are immeasurable. It is a destination that gets under your skin, leaving you with a profound sense of having experienced something truly authentic and rare. This guide will provide the essential information needed to plan a safe and unforgettable journey into the wild, beautiful, and culturally rich world of Papua New Guinea.
Back to Top2) Best Time to Visit and Why
Choosing the optimal time to visit Papua New Guinea is crucial for making the most of its unique attractions, as the country’s tropical climate is dominated by distinct wet and dry seasons that significantly impact travel conditions. Generally, the best time to visit is during the dry season, which runs from April to November. This period sees less rainfall, lower humidity, and more sunshine across most of the country. These favorable weather conditions are essential for the key activities that draw travelers to PNG, such as trekking, diving, and attending the famous cultural festivals. The dry season makes travel more manageable, reliable, and comfortable, allowing for a much more enjoyable exploration of this rugged and challenging destination.
For those interested in trekking, particularly the legendary Kokoda Track, the dry season is the only feasible time to go. From April to November, the trail is less muddy and treacherous, and the risk of flash floods in the rivers you need to cross is significantly lower. Similarly, the Highlands region is more accessible during these months, with clearer skies offering better views of the stunning mountain scenery and less disruption to the domestic flights that are vital for getting around. The dry conditions make it easier to visit remote villages and to witness daily life without the hindrance of constant downpours.
The dry season is also the peak time for two of Papua New Guinea’s most spectacular cultural events: the Mount Hagen Show (usually in August) and the Goroka Show (usually in September). These massive “sing-sings” bring together dozens of tribes from across the Highlands and the rest of the country to showcase their unique cultures through traditional dress, music, and dance. The dry, sunny weather provides the perfect backdrop for these vibrant festivals, which are a major highlight of any trip to PNG. If your primary reason for visiting is to attend one of these shows, you must plan your trip for the corresponding month and book all accommodation and tours far in advance, as this is the busiest time for tourism in the Highlands.
The wet season, from December to March, brings heavy and prolonged rainfall, especially to the coastal and island regions. This can make travel extremely difficult. Roads can become impassable, domestic flights are more prone to cancellations due to bad weather, and trekking trails become dangerously slippery and muddy. The high humidity can be oppressive, and the risk of mosquito-borne illnesses like malaria and dengue fever increases. While the landscape is incredibly lush and green during this time, the logistical challenges and weather-related disruptions make it a difficult period for most forms of tourism. Therefore, unless you have a specific reason to travel during these months, it is strongly recommended to plan your Papua New Guinea adventure for the drier, more predictable months between April and November.
Back to Top3) Top Destinations and Best Hotel
Papua New Guinea’s destinations are for the adventurous at heart, offering profound cultural immersion and raw, untamed nature. The journey almost always begins in the capital, Port Moresby (POM), which serves as the country’s main international gateway. While it has a reputation for high crime and is primarily a transit hub, there are places of interest, such as the Port Moresby Nature Park and the National Museum and Art Gallery, which offer a great introduction to the country’s incredible biodiversity and cultural heritage. Due to the significant security concerns in the city, it is imperative to stay in secure accommodation. The Airways Hotel is widely regarded as the best and safest option in Port Moresby, offering resort-style luxury, high-level security, and stunning views near the airport.
The Highlands are the cultural heartland of PNG and a must-visit for anyone seeking to understand the country’s incredible tribal diversity. The towns of Mount Hagen and Goroka are the main centers for exploring this region of jagged peaks and lush valleys. The main draw here is the opportunity to visit local villages and witness traditional ceremonies and ways of life. This region is famous for its spectacular “sing-sings,” particularly the Mount Hagen Show and the Goroka Show. For a truly exceptional experience in the Highlands, staying at a high-quality lodge is essential. Rondon Ridge, perched high in the mountains above Mount Hagen, offers breathtaking panoramic views and expertly guided cultural and nature tours, providing a comfortable and safe base for exploration.
The Sepik River in the northern lowlands offers a completely different but equally compelling cultural experience. This massive, snaking river is the lifeblood of the region, and the communities that live along its banks are renowned for their incredible artistic traditions, particularly their wood carvings and elaborate “spirit houses” (haus tambaran). A journey on the Sepik is typically done by motor-canoe, staying in simple village guesthouses or on a liveaboard vessel like the MV Sepik Spirit. This is not a journey for those seeking luxury but for those wanting a deep and authentic immersion into a remote culture. One of the best land-based lodges for exploring the region is the Karawari Lodge, which sits on a ridge overlooking the jungle and provides guided excursions to the surrounding villages.
For world-class diving and a taste of island life, the Bismarck Archipelago, particularly the islands of New Britain and New Ireland, is a premier destination. The waters around this region are part of the Coral Triangle, boasting some of the highest marine biodiversity on the planet. Kimbe Bay in New Britain is famous for its pristine coral reefs, while the area around Rabaul offers incredible wreck diving, with numerous Japanese ships and aircraft from WWII resting on the seabed. Rabaul is also known for its active volcanoes, which create a dramatic and volatile landscape. Walindi Plantation Resort in Kimbe Bay is a legendary dive resort that has been pioneering diving and marine conservation in PNG for decades, offering an unparalleled experience for underwater enthusiasts.
Back to Top4) Language & Culture
The culture of Papua New Guinea is arguably the most diverse and complex on Earth, a living mosaic of traditions, beliefs, and languages that have developed in relative isolation over millennia. The country’s defining feature is its astounding linguistic diversity, with over 850 distinct indigenous languages spoken among a population of just over nine million people. This means that about one-third of the world’s languages are found in PNG. This incredible diversity is a direct result of the country’s rugged geography, where steep mountain ranges and dense jungles have kept communities separated, allowing them to develop their own unique cultural identities. While there are three official languages—English, Tok Pisin, and Hiri Motu—English is not widely spoken outside of business and government circles.
The lingua franca that unites this diverse nation is Tok Pisin, a creole language based on English. Learning some basic Tok Pisin is essential for any traveler wishing to communicate outside of high-end hotels and tour groups. However, the true heart of communication and identity lies in “tok ples,” the local village language. At the core of PNG society is the concept of the “wantok” system. The word “wantok” literally translates to “one talk” in Tok Pisin, meaning people who speak the same language. This system forms the fundamental social fabric of the nation, creating a powerful network of mutual obligation and support among people from the same clan or tribe. A person’s primary loyalty is to their wantoks, and this system functions as a social safety net, providing support in times of need.
Traditional beliefs and customs remain incredibly strong in many parts of the country. Ancestor worship and a belief in spirits, both benevolent and malevolent, are deeply ingrained in the worldview of many communities. These beliefs are expressed through elaborate rituals, ceremonies, and art. The “sing-sing,” a gathering of tribes to celebrate with music, dance, and spectacular body decoration, is a powerful expression of cultural identity and social connection. Art is not merely decorative; it is functional and spiritual. The intricate masks and carvings of the Sepik River region, for example, are created to house ancestral spirits and play a central role in initiation ceremonies and other rituals.
The concept of wealth and status is also rooted in tradition. In many Highland societies, a man’s influence and prestige are determined by the number of pigs he owns and his ability to contribute them to feasts and exchanges. This system of reciprocal gift-giving and obligation is a cornerstone of the social and political structure. For a visitor, understanding these deep-seated cultural values is crucial. It requires an approach of deep respect, humility, and a willingness to learn. Engaging with PNG’s culture is not a passive experience; it is a profound journey into a different way of seeing the world, and it is the primary reason why travel to this country is so uniquely rewarding.
Back to Top5) Festivals & Events
The festivals of Papua New Guinea, known as “sing-sings,” are among the most spectacular and authentic cultural displays on the planet. These are not events staged merely for tourists; they are vibrant, living expressions of tribal identity, heritage, and social cohesion. A sing-sing is a gathering where different tribes come together to showcase their unique traditions through dazzling costumes, rhythmic dances, and powerful songs. For the tribes themselves, it is a time to renew alliances, settle disputes, and display their strength and wealth. For a visitor, attending a major sing-sing is a breathtaking, multi-sensory experience and an unparalleled opportunity to witness the incredible cultural diversity of PNG in a single location. It is, for many, the absolute highlight of their trip.
The two most famous of these festivals are the Mount Hagen Show and the Goroka Show, both held in the Highlands. The Mount Hagen Cultural Show, which usually takes place in August, is one of the largest and most renowned. It was first staged in the 1960s by colonial administrators as a way to encourage peace and cultural exchange between warring tribes. Today, it brings together more than 100 different tribal groups from across the Highlands and other regions of PNG. The showground becomes a kaleidoscope of color and movement, with each group presenting their distinct and spectacular body paint, feathered headdresses, and traditional dances. The sound of drumming and chanting fills the air, creating an atmosphere of raw, primal energy.
The Goroka Show, held in September around the time of the country’s Independence Day, is the nation’s oldest cultural show and is equally impressive. It is particularly famous for certain iconic groups, such as the Asaro Mudmen, who cover their bodies in grey clay and wear eerie, heavy mud masks, and the “Huli Wigmen” from the Tari region, known for their ornate ceremonial wigs made from human hair. The sheer diversity on display is staggering, from the rhythmic dances of the coastal groups to the powerful, stomping performances of the Highland warriors. Attending one of these major shows requires planning far in advance, as accommodation and tour services get booked up a year or more ahead of time.
Beyond these two giants, there are many smaller, more intimate, and equally fascinating festivals held throughout the country. The National Mask Festival in Rabaul, New Britain, held in July, celebrates the unique mask-making traditions of the coastal and island peoples. It features incredible mask designs and the famous fire-dancing of the Baining people. The Kenu and Kundu Festival in Alotau in November showcases the maritime traditions of Milne Bay, with spectacular war canoe races and drumming performances. These smaller festivals can offer a more personal and less crowded experience, allowing for closer interaction with the performers. Whichever festival you choose, it will provide an unforgettable window into the vibrant, living cultures of Papua New Guinea.
Back to Top6) Local Cuisine
The cuisine of Papua New Guinea is a direct reflection of its land and its subsistence-based agricultural traditions. It is a rustic, starchy, and entirely organic cuisine, based on what can be grown in village gardens or gathered from the wild. For travelers, PNG is not a destination known for its gourmet dining scene; rather, it’s an opportunity to experience a way of eating that has sustained its people for millennia, largely untouched by outside culinary influences. The foundation of the PNG diet is built on root vegetables, which form the staple source of carbohydrates. The most important of these are “kaukau” (sweet potato), taro, yams, and cassava. These are typically cooked simply, either by boiling, roasting over a fire, or cooked in an earth oven.
The most iconic and traditional method of cooking in Papua New Guinea is the “mumu.” This is a celebratory feast and a method of cooking that involves an earth oven. A pit is dug in the ground, and stones are heated in a fire until they are red-hot. The hot stones are then placed in the bottom of the pit. Layers of food—typically pork, chicken, root vegetables, and leafy greens—are wrapped in banana leaves and placed on top of the stones. The pit is then covered with more leaves and earth and left to steam for several hours. The result is incredibly tender, smoky, and flavorful food. Experiencing a mumu is a fantastic cultural and culinary experience, often shared with visitors during village stays or at cultural shows.
In the lowland and coastal regions, sago is another major staple. This starch is extracted from the pulp of the sago palm tree in a laborious process. It is often cooked as a kind of pancake or mixed with water to make a glutinous porridge, which is then eaten with fish or other proteins. The coastal and riverine areas also have access to a wonderful variety of fresh fish, crabs, and other seafood, which are usually grilled, boiled, or cooked in coconut cream. Coconut is a key ingredient in these regions, adding flavor and richness to many dishes. Greens, such as “kumu” (sweet potato leaves) and ferns, are widely used and are often simply boiled or steamed.
For visitors, most of your meals will be provided by your hotel, lodge, or tour operator. Tourist accommodations typically serve a mix of Western-style dishes and a sanitized version of local food. To experience the true local cuisine, you need to visit a local market or be invited to share a meal in a village. Local markets are a vibrant sight, overflowing with colorful fruits like pineapple, mango, and passionfruit, as well as a vast array of unfamiliar vegetables. While the food in PNG might be simple, it is fresh, organic, and provides a direct connection to the land and the ancient agricultural traditions of its people.
Back to Top7) Transportation
Transportation in Papua New Guinea is one of the biggest challenges and defining characteristics of travel in the country. The terrain is incredibly rugged, with formidable mountain ranges, dense jungles, and vast swamps that have made the development of a comprehensive road network almost impossible. As a result, there are very few roads connecting the major regions of the country. You cannot, for example, drive from the capital, Port Moresby, to the second-largest city, Lae, or to the Highlands. This geographical reality means that for any long-distance travel, domestic air travel is not just an option; it is an absolute necessity. The country is almost entirely dependent on its network of domestic flights to link its population centers.
The domestic aviation network is the backbone of the nation’s transport system, with the main airlines, Air Niugini and PNG Air, operating as “flying buses.” These airlines connect Port Moresby with provincial capitals like Mount Hagen, Goroka, Wewak, and Rabaul. From these provincial hubs, smaller third-level airlines and charter companies operate light aircraft (like the iconic Twin Otter) to connect to hundreds of small, remote airstrips, many of which are little more than a strip of grass carved out of the mountainside. Flying in PNG is an adventure in itself, often offering breathtaking views of the dramatic landscapes below. However, flights are frequently subject to delays or cancellations due to unpredictable weather, particularly in the Highlands, so building a high degree of flexibility into your itinerary is essential.
Where roads do exist, such as the Highlands Highway connecting Lae to Mount Hagen, the primary mode of public transport is the PMV, or Public Motor Vehicle. These are typically brightly decorated trucks or minibuses that operate along set routes, picking up and dropping off passengers along the way. PMVs are the way that most local people travel, and they are incredibly cheap. However, they can be overcrowded, uncomfortable, and are often not well-maintained. Safety is also a major concern, as accidents are common and there is a risk of hold-ups (“raskols”) on some routes. For these reasons, PMVs are generally not recommended for foreign travelers, unless you are a very experienced independent traveler with a high tolerance for risk.
For most visitors, all ground transportation will be arranged by their tour operator or lodge. This is by far the safest and most reliable way to travel. Tour companies use private, well-maintained vehicles with experienced local drivers who understand the road conditions and security situation. In urban areas like Port Moresby, it is strongly advised to use pre-arranged transport from your hotel or a reputable car service rather than hailing taxis on the street. In some regions, like the Sepik River, the only way to travel is by water, using a motor-canoe. In essence, transportation in PNG is a major logistical component of any trip, and for safety and reliability, it is best left in the hands of experienced local professionals.
Back to Top8) Weather & Climate
The climate of Papua New Guinea is typically tropical, characterized by high temperatures and humidity year-round, with distinct wet and dry seasons that are dictated by the monsoon winds. Located just south of the equator, PNG does not experience the four distinct seasons of temperate climates. Instead, the weather is defined by the rhythm of the rain. Understanding this pattern is fundamental to planning a trip, as the weather has a huge impact on the feasibility of travel and activities, particularly in a country with such rugged terrain and limited infrastructure. The timing of your visit will determine whether you are trekking on a relatively dry path or a treacherous river of mud.
The dry season, which generally runs from April to November, is the most favorable time for travel to most parts of the country. During this period, the southeast monsoon brings drier weather, less rainfall, and more sunshine. While it is still hot and humid, the conditions are far more manageable for outdoor activities. This is the peak season for trekking, diving, and attending the major cultural festivals in the Highlands. In the Highlands region itself, the climate is more temperate due to the altitude, with warm days and cool, crisp nights. Even during the dry season, you should expect some rainfall, especially in the form of afternoon showers, so packing a good rain jacket is always essential.
The wet season, from December to March, is caused by the northwest monsoon, which brings heavy, frequent, and often prolonged rainfall. This season can make travel extremely challenging. The lowlands and coastal areas experience the heaviest downpours, leading to high humidity, flooding, and an increase in the mosquito population, which elevates the risk of malaria and dengue fever. Trekking trails like the Kokoda Track are generally closed during this period as they become dangerously slippery and rivers become swollen and impassable. Domestic flights, the lifeline of the country’s transport system, are more susceptible to delays and cancellations due to poor visibility and storms.
It’s important to note that the weather in Papua New Guinea can be highly localized and unpredictable. The mountainous terrain creates numerous microclimates, and conditions can change rapidly. One valley can be drenched in rain while the next is bathed in sunshine. Even during the dry season, the high mountains of the Highlands can be shrouded in cloud and experience cool, damp conditions. Therefore, regardless of when you visit, it is crucial to pack layers of clothing. This should include lightweight, quick-drying clothes for the heat and humidity, a fleece or warm jacket for the cool Highland evenings, and reliable waterproofs for the inevitable rain showers.
Season / Region | Average Temperature Range (C) / Conditions |
---|---|
Dry Season (Apr – Nov) – Lowlands/Coast | 24°C – 32°C / Hot and humid with more sunshine. |
Dry Season (Apr – Nov) – Highlands | 15°C – 25°C / Warm days, cool nights. Best for trekking. |
Wet Season (Dec – Mar) – Lowlands/Coast | 24°C – 30°C / Very high humidity, heavy and frequent rain. |
Wet Season (Dec – Mar) – Highlands | 14°C – 24°C / Cooler, with persistent cloud and rain. |
9) Airports, International and Domestic Flight
Air travel is the absolute cornerstone of transportation in Papua New Guinea, both for arriving in the country and for moving between its disparate and geographically isolated regions. The primary and, for most travelers, the only international gateway is Jacksons International Airport (POM) in the capital city of Port Moresby. The national carrier, Air Niugini, operates international flights connecting Port Moresby to a number of key hubs in the Asia-Pacific region, including Brisbane and Cairns in Australia, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Manila. Other airlines, such as Qantas and Philippine Airlines, also historically operated flights to Port Moresby. Essentially, all international visitors will begin their PNG journey at this airport, which serves as the central hub for the entire domestic network.
Once you have arrived in Port Moresby, you will almost certainly be taking a domestic flight to reach your intended destination, whether it’s the Highlands, the Sepik region, or the islands. The domestic network is extensive and vital. Air Niugini and the second major carrier, PNG Air, operate flights using modern turboprop aircraft (like the ATR and Dash 8) from Port Moresby to the main provincial capitals, such as Mount Hagen (HGU), Goroka (GKA), Wewak (WWK), Madang (MAG), and Rabaul (RAB). These flights are the “highways” of PNG, and they are essential for any tourist itinerary that includes more than one region. Booking these domestic flights well in advance is crucial, especially if you are traveling during the peak festival season.
The aviation network extends even further into the remote corners of the country through a network of third-level airlines and charter companies. These operators use small, rugged aircraft, such as the de Havilland Twin Otter and the Cessna Caravan, which are capable of landing on the short, often unpaved, and challenging airstrips that serve remote villages, mission stations, and wilderness lodges. For many communities in the Highlands and the Sepik, these light aircraft are their only link to the outside world. For travelers, flying on one of these planes is an unforgettable adventure in itself, offering incredible low-altitude views of the breathtaking and inaccessible terrain below. These flights are typically arranged as part of an all-inclusive tour package with a reputable operator.
It is critically important for travelers to understand the realities of flying in Papua New Guinea. The weather is a major factor, especially in the Highlands, where clouds can build up rapidly, forcing flights to be delayed, diverted, or canceled with little notice. Mechanical issues can also cause delays. Therefore, it is absolutely essential to build at least one or two buffer days into your itinerary, particularly at the end of your trip before your international flight home. Do not schedule a domestic flight from a remote location to arrive in Port Moresby on the same day as your international departure. A flexible attitude and a patient mindset are non-negotiable for anyone traveling in PNG.
Back to Top10) Back Up Plan and Flight Route
Traveling in Papua New Guinea demands a level of flexibility and preparedness that is unmatched by almost any other destination. A solid backup plan is not just a good idea; it is an essential part of your travel strategy. The country’s unpredictable nature, from its volatile weather to its logistical challenges, means that things will almost certainly not go exactly as planned. Flights will be canceled, roads may be blocked, and unforeseen events can occur. The key to a successful trip is to embrace this uncertainty with a patient and resourceful mindset. The most important rule for any PNG itinerary is to build in significant buffer time, especially at the end of your trip. Never book a domestic flight to connect with an international flight on the same day. Always plan to be back in Port Moresby at least one full day, preferably two, before your flight home.
Comprehensive travel insurance is a non-negotiable and absolute necessity for any visitor to Papua New Guinea. Your policy must be of the highest caliber and should be scrutinized carefully before purchase. It needs to provide extensive coverage for trip cancellations and interruptions, as the likelihood of this happening is very high. Crucially, it must include a high level of coverage for emergency medical evacuation. Medical facilities in PNG are extremely limited and are not equipped to handle serious medical emergencies. In a critical situation, you would need to be evacuated to Australia, a service that can cost tens of thousands of dollars. Ensure your policy covers this, as well as any activities you plan to undertake, such as trekking or diving.
Your practical backup plan should include having multiple ways to communicate and access funds. While a local SIM card is a good idea, satellite phones or personal locator beacons are a worthwhile investment for those venturing into very remote areas like the Kokoda Track or the deep Sepik. Always carry a reasonable amount of local currency (Kina) in cash, as ATMs are scarce outside of major towns and are often unreliable. Credit cards are only useful in top-end hotels in Port Moresby. Have a list of emergency contacts, including your embassy, your tour operator’s 24-hour number, and your insurance provider’s emergency assistance line, readily accessible at all times.
When it comes to flight routes, your primary international gateway will be Port Moresby (POM). The main international hubs connecting to POM are Brisbane (BNE) and Cairns (CNS) in Australia, and Singapore (SIN). This provides a natural backup routing strategy. If your planned flight via Brisbane is canceled, you may be able to reroute through Singapore, or vice versa. It is also wise to book your international and main domestic flights with the same airline (e.g., Air Niugini) or partner airlines where possible, as this can make rebooking much easier in case of a disruption. Ultimately, your best backup plan is to travel with a highly reputable and experienced tour operator who has the local knowledge, contacts, and resources to manage the inevitable logistical challenges that are part of the PNG adventure.
Primary Flight Route | Alternative / Backup Strategy |
---|---|
From Australia: Fly from Brisbane (BNE) or Cairns (CNS) directly to Port Moresby (POM) on Air Niugini or Qantas. | If flights from Australia are disrupted, consider routing through Singapore (SIN), which also has direct flights to Port Moresby. |
From Asia/Europe: Fly to Singapore (SIN) or Hong Kong (HKG), then take a direct connecting flight to Port Moresby (POM). | Reroute via Australia. A flight to Brisbane (BNE) offers the most frequent connections to Port Moresby and can be a reliable alternative if Asian routes are problematic. |
11) Safety & Health
This section contains critical safety and health information that all prospective travelers must read carefully. Papua New Guinea is a destination with significant and serious safety and health risks. Personal security is the single most important consideration for any visitor. The country has a very high rate of serious crime, and law and order are weak in many areas. Violent crimes such as carjacking, armed robbery, and sexual assault are common, particularly in urban centers like Port Moresby, Lae, and Mount Hagen. It is strongly advised not to walk around these cities, especially after dark. All travel should be in a secure vehicle, and accommodation should have 24-hour security. The risk of being in the wrong place at the wrong time is high, and travelers must maintain a high level of situational awareness at all times.
Beyond urban crime, tribal fighting can erupt with little warning, particularly in the Highlands region. While these conflicts do not typically target foreigners, there is a significant risk of being caught in the crossfire or stranded by roadblocks. It is essential to travel with a reputable local tour operator who has up-to-date knowledge of the security situation on the ground and can make informed decisions about your safety. Independent travel in PNG is not recommended for anyone but the most experienced and resilient travelers with a deep understanding of the country. For most visitors, a fully guided tour is the only safe and practical way to experience Papua New Guinea.
From a health perspective, PNG presents a number of serious challenges. It is a tropical country with a high prevalence of mosquito-borne diseases. Malaria, including the dangerous falciparum strain, is widespread in all areas below 1,800 meters. Taking preventative antimalarial medication is essential and should be discussed with your doctor well before your trip. Dengue fever is also a significant risk. The most important preventative measure is to be meticulous about avoiding mosquito bites. This means using a strong insect repellent with DEET, wearing long, loose-fitting clothing, and sleeping under a mosquito net. Other health risks include tuberculosis, typhoid, and various waterborne illnesses. All water should be considered unsafe to drink; stick to bottled, boiled, or properly treated water at all times.
Medical facilities in Papua New Guinea are extremely limited and fall far below international standards, even in the capital, Port Moresby. Hospitals are poorly equipped and often lack basic supplies. For any serious illness or injury, medical evacuation to Australia is the only viable option. This makes it absolutely mandatory for every visitor to have comprehensive travel insurance that specifically includes a high level of coverage for emergency medical evacuation. Before you travel, consult a travel medicine specialist to ensure you have all the necessary vaccinations and medications for your trip, including a well-stocked first-aid kit to handle minor injuries and ailments yourself.
Back to Top12) Currency, Commodities & Costs
The official currency of Papua New Guinea is the Kina (PGK), which is subdivided into 100 toea. For travelers, it is essential to understand that PNG is largely a cash-based economy, especially outside of the few high-end establishments in Port Moresby. You will need to carry a sufficient amount of local currency (Kina) for most of your expenses, including meals, handicrafts, and tips. US dollars or Australian dollars are not generally accepted for direct transactions, but they can be exchanged for Kina at banks or official exchange bureaus at the airport and in major towns. It is best to arrive with some cash in a major currency like AUD or USD to exchange upon arrival.
ATMs are available in Port Moresby and other major provincial towns like Mount Hagen and Goroka, but they should not be relied upon as your sole source of funds. They can be unreliable, frequently out of service, or out of cash. Furthermore, they are a potential target for crime. It is safer to exchange money inside a bank than to use an external ATM. Credit cards (Visa and Mastercard) are only accepted at a very limited number of places: top-tier hotels, the offices of major airlines, and some upscale restaurants in Port Moresby. Outside of these few locations, your credit card will be of little use. Therefore, a combination of carrying foreign currency to exchange and careful use of ATMs in secure locations is the best financial strategy.
It is a common misconception that because Papua New Guinea is a developing country, it will be a cheap travel destination. This is not the case. In fact, PNG is a surprisingly expensive country for tourists. The high costs are driven by the country’s challenging logistics and the necessity of using air travel to move between regions. Domestic flights are expensive, and since they are unavoidable, they will form a significant part of any travel budget. Furthermore, the limited tourist infrastructure means that accommodation, particularly the safe and comfortable lodges required for a pleasant trip, comes at a premium. The cost of guided tours, which are essential for both safety and access, is also very high.
The cost of commodities and food can also be high, as many goods have to be flown in to different parts of the country. A simple meal in a hotel restaurant can be expensive. Fuel is costly, which adds to the price of all transportation. To manage costs, it is best to book a comprehensive tour package that includes accommodation, internal flights, ground transport, and meals. While the upfront cost of such a package may seem high, it often represents better value and provides a much higher level of safety and reliability than trying to arrange everything independently. PNG is a destination where paying for quality and expertise is a wise and necessary investment.
Commodity / Service | Estimated Cost (PGK) |
---|---|
Bottle of water (1.5 liter) from a local store | 3 – 5 PGK |
Meal at a simple local restaurant or lodge | 30 – 60 PGK |
Bottle of local beer (SP Lager) at a hotel | 10 – 20 PGK |
One-way domestic flight (e.g., POM to Hagen) | 500 – 1,000 PGK |
Entry fee for a major cultural show (e.g., Goroka) | 300 – 500 PGK |
Private vehicle with driver/guide for a day | 800 – 1,500 PGK |
13) Housing Rental Cost
The long-term housing rental market in Papua New Guinea is almost exclusively relevant to the expatriate community working in the country, and it is heavily concentrated in the capital, Port Moresby. For the vast majority of visitors, this information is not applicable, but it provides insight into the realities of living in PNG. The rental market in Port Moresby is characterized by extremely high costs and a strong focus on security. Expatriates do not typically live in standard local housing; they reside in secure, modern apartment complexes or standalone houses located within guarded compounds. These compounds are the norm and a necessary precaution due to the high levels of crime in the city.
The cost of renting an expatriate-standard property in Port Moresby is exceptionally high, often comparable to or even exceeding rental prices in major global cities like Sydney or London. A basic two-bedroom apartment in a secure complex can range from 2,000 to 4,000 USD per month. A larger three-bedroom apartment or a townhouse within a compound could easily cost between 4,000 and 7,000 USD per month. Standalone houses with their own yards and private security are at the very top end of the market. These high prices are driven by the limited supply of secure housing, the high costs of construction and maintenance, and the fact that rents are typically paid by multinational corporations or diplomatic missions for their employees.
These rental properties are usually modern and come with amenities expected by expatriates, such as air conditioning, Western-style kitchens and bathrooms, and access to shared facilities like a swimming pool or a gym. Crucially, they almost always have 24-hour security guards, perimeter fencing, and backup generators and water tanks. The latter are essential, as the municipal power and water supplies in Port Moresby can be unreliable. These security and infrastructure features are a major contributor to the high rental costs. Leases are typically for one or two years, and large upfront payments for bond and rent in advance are standard.
Outside of Port Moresby, the expatriate rental market is very small and is concentrated in other industrial centers like Lae. In more remote provincial towns, there is virtually no formal rental market for foreigners. Expatriates working in these areas, such as those in mining, missionary work, or aid programs, almost always live in dedicated company or organization-provided housing within a secure compound. For anyone considering a long-term move to PNG for work, housing will be the single largest expense, and it is a topic that must be thoroughly discussed and negotiated as part of any employment contract.
Property Type & Location | Estimated Monthly Rent (USD) |
---|---|
2-bedroom apartment in a secure compound (Port Moresby) | $2,000 – $4,000 |
3-bedroom apartment/townhouse in a compound (Port Moresby) | $4,000 – $7,000 |
4-bedroom standalone house with security (Port Moresby) | $7,000 – $12,000+ |
Expatriate-standard apartment (Lae) | $1,500 – $3,000 |
14) Cost of Living
The cost of living for expatriates in Papua New Guinea is exceptionally high, consistently ranking Port Moresby as one of the most expensive cities in the world for foreign residents. This high cost is a direct result of a combination of factors: the necessity for high-security living, a heavy reliance on expensive imported goods, poor local infrastructure, and the logistical challenges of operating in the country. It is a cost of living driven not by luxury, but by the fundamental requirements for safety and maintaining a basic international standard of health and comfort. Any individual or family considering relocating to PNG must be prepared for these significant financial demands.
As detailed in the housing section, rental costs are the primary driver of the high cost of living. Securing safe and appropriate accommodation consumes a massive portion of any expatriate’s budget. In addition to rent, the cost of utilities is also very high. Electricity tariffs are expensive, and the need to run backup generators during frequent power outages adds a significant fuel cost. All of these housing-related expenses—rent, security, electricity, and generator fuel—combine to create a monthly bill that is far higher than in most other countries.
Day-to-day expenses are also inflated by the reliance on imports. While local produce from the markets is available, most expatriates supplement their shopping at the few modern supermarkets in Port Moresby. These supermarkets stock a range of imported goods from Australia and Asia, but these items come with a hefty price tag due to shipping and import duties. A weekly grocery bill for a family seeking familiar products like milk, cheese, breakfast cereal, and good-quality meat can be shockingly high. Similarly, owning a car is a near necessity for safe transportation, but the cost of purchasing a vehicle (which is usually imported) and insuring it is very expensive.
For families, the cost of education and healthcare represents another enormous expense. The public school system is not an option for expatriate children, who must attend one of the few private international schools in Port Moresby. The annual tuition fees for these schools are extremely high and are a major financial planning consideration for any family. Likewise, as local healthcare is very basic, all expatriates must have comprehensive private health insurance that includes medical evacuation coverage. All of these factors—secure housing, imported goods, private schooling, and health insurance—combine to make the cost of living in Papua New Guinea a formidable challenge, one that is typically only feasible with the support of a comprehensive expatriate employment package.
Expense Category | Estimated Monthly/Annual Cost (USD) |
---|---|
Basic Utilities (incl. security & generator fuel) for a house | $500 – $1,500+ per month |
Internet (Home broadband plan) | $100 – $250 per month |
Membership at a secure recreation club (e.g., Yacht Club) | $1,000 – $2,500+ per year |
Weekly groceries for a family of 4 (heavy on imported goods) | $300 – $500+ per week |
Preschool (Kindergarten), Full Day, International Standard | $800 – $1,500 per month |
International School (Primary/Secondary), Yearly Tuition | $15,000 – $25,000+ per year |
15) Shopping & Souvenirs
Shopping for souvenirs in Papua New Guinea is a truly unique experience, offering an opportunity to purchase authentic, handcrafted tribal art that is among the most vibrant and powerful in the world. This is not a country of mass-produced trinkets; it is a place where art is deeply intertwined with culture, spirituality, and daily life. The best souvenirs from PNG are genuine artifacts that tell a story of a specific culture or region. When you buy a mask from the Sepik or a “bilum” from the Highlands, you are not just acquiring an object; you are acquiring a piece of living culture. The best places to find these items are at local markets, directly from villages, or from reputable art galleries and craft shops in the main towns.
The Sepik River region is world-renowned for its incredible wood carvings. The art of the Sepik is complex and highly symbolic, with each village and linguistic group having its own distinct style. The most famous items are the intricately carved masks, which are not meant to be worn on the face but are displayed in the “haus tambaran” (spirit house) to represent ancestral or nature spirits. You can also find beautifully carved storyboards, which depict village myths and legends, as well as hooks, drums, and ancestor figures. The quality and authenticity can vary greatly, so it is best to purchase these items with the help of a knowledgeable local guide.
In the Highlands, the crafts are different but equally fascinating. The “bilum” is one of the most iconic symbols of PNG. These are incredibly strong and versatile string bags, woven by hand by women using a looping technique. They are used to carry everything from groceries and firewood to babies. Each region has its own distinctive patterns and colors, and they make for a beautiful, practical, and authentic souvenir. The Highlands are also a place to find tribal adornments, such as shell necklaces (including the valuable kina shell), cassowary bone daggers, and examples of the magnificent feathered headdresses used in sing-sings, though these are often made for sale rather than for actual ceremonial use.
When shopping in PNG, it is important to be a responsible buyer. Ask about the story behind the item and, if possible, buy directly from the artisan who made it. This ensures that the money goes directly to the creator and their community. Bargaining is common and expected in markets, but it should be done with a friendly and respectful spirit. Be aware of customs regulations in your home country regarding the export of certain items, particularly those made from animal products or old artifacts. Reputable dealers in Port Moresby can assist with proper documentation and shipping for larger items. A piece of art from Papua New Guinea is more than just a souvenir; it is a powerful connection to one of the world’s most extraordinary cultural landscapes.
Back to Top16) Nightlife & Entertainment
The concept of nightlife, as it is understood in Western or other major tourist destinations, is virtually non-existent in most of Papua New Guinea. The country’s social life is centered around family, community, and village activities, not on a commercial entertainment scene. For the vast majority of the country, evenings are a quiet time. In rural villages, life is dictated by the rising and setting of the sun. After dark, families will gather to eat, tell stories, and chew “buai” (betel nut), and the village will become very quiet and dark. This peaceful, natural rhythm is part of the authentic experience of visiting rural PNG.
In the capital, Port Moresby, a limited nightlife scene does exist, but it is almost exclusively confined to the secure environments of the major upmarket hotels and a few private clubs. These venues cater primarily to the expatriate community and wealthy locals. You can find hotel bars, lounges, and some restaurants that stay open in the evenings, offering a safe and controlled environment to have a drink or a meal. These places, such as the bars at the Airways Hotel or the Grand Papua Hotel, are secure and professional, but they are also very expensive and are isolated from the reality of the city outside their walls. There are no safe entertainment districts or areas where one can walk from bar to bar.
It is extremely important for all visitors to understand the security risks associated with venturing out at night in Port Moresby or other urban centers like Lae. It is strongly advised against. Walking the streets after dark is highly dangerous due to the high risk of armed robbery and other violent crimes. Any evening travel should be done in a secure, pre-arranged vehicle, moving from one secure location (like your hotel) to another (like a restaurant within a secure compound). Spontaneous nights out are not a feature of life in PNG’s cities. Safety must always be the primary consideration.
The most authentic and spectacular form of “entertainment” in Papua New Guinea is not found in a bar or a club but in its traditional culture. The true “show” is a cultural sing-sing. These vibrant gatherings of tribes, with their incredible costumes, rhythmic dancing, and powerful chanting, are the pinnacle of PNG entertainment. These are daytime events, but they are the cultural equivalent of a major concert or festival. For a visitor, the best way to spend an evening is often to enjoy a quiet dinner at your secure lodge, share stories with your guide and fellow travelers, and get a good night’s rest in preparation for the next day’s adventure. The magic of PNG is found in its people and landscapes, not in its nightlife.
Back to Top17) Insider Travel Tips
Traveling in Papua New Guinea is a profound experience, and a few insider tips can help you navigate its complexities and connect more deeply with its extraordinary culture. The single most important tip for a first-time visitor is to travel with a reputable and experienced tour operator. This is not a destination for casual, independent backpacking. The logistical challenges, safety concerns, and cultural complexities are immense. A good operator will handle all the internal flights, secure transport, safe accommodation, and, most importantly, provide you with knowledgeable local guides. These guides are your key to the country. They act as translators, cultural interpreters, and fixers, bridging the gap between you and the local communities and ensuring your interactions are respectful and appropriate.
Secondly, embrace the “wantok” system and the importance of relationships. “Wantok” (one talk) refers to people who speak the same language and is the foundation of the social fabric. Relationships and reciprocity are everything. When visiting a village, your guide will facilitate the proper introductions and protocols. It is customary and wise to bring small gifts to offer to your hosts or village elders. These do not need to be expensive. Items like sticks of tobacco, bags of rice or sugar, or small packets of salt are highly valued and are appropriate gifts to show respect and gratitude. This act of giving is a crucial part of building a positive relationship and being welcomed as a guest rather than just a tourist.
Thirdly, be prepared for a digital detox. While you can get a local SIM card, mobile phone and internet connectivity are highly unreliable and often non-existent outside of major towns. Don’t expect to be able to post to social media every day or to be in constant contact with home. Embrace this disconnection. It allows you to be more present and to fully immerse yourself in the incredible environment around you. Inform your family and friends that you may be out of contact for several days at a time. A satellite phone or a personal locator beacon, often carried by tour guides on remote treks, is the only reliable form of communication in the deep wilderness.
Finally, pack smart and be adaptable. The conditions are rugged and the weather is unpredictable. Bring sturdy, broken-in hiking boots, lightweight quick-drying clothes that you can layer, and a reliable waterproof jacket. A powerful insect repellent, a basic first-aid kit, and any personal medications are essential. But beyond the physical items, the most important thing to pack is a flexible and patient mindset. Flights will be delayed. Plans will change. Things will not run on a strict schedule. The ability to laugh, adapt, and go with the flow is the secret to a successful and enjoyable journey through the wild, unpredictable, and utterly unforgettable world of Papua New Guinea.
Back to Top18) Etiquette & Customs
Navigating the complex cultural landscape of Papua New Guinea requires a deep sense of respect, humility, and a willingness to observe and learn. With over 800 distinct cultures, customs can vary significantly from one valley to the next, but some general principles of etiquette apply broadly and are crucial for any visitor to understand. The foundation of all social interaction is respect, particularly for elders and community leaders. When entering a village, it is essential to do so with a local guide who can make the proper introductions. Always greet the village chief or elders first. A simple handshake is generally acceptable for men, but always wait for the other person to initiate.
Gift-giving is an integral part of showing respect and establishing good relationships. It is not about the monetary value of the gift but the gesture itself. When visiting a community, it is customary to present a small gift to the chief or your host family. The most valued gifts are often practical items that are useful in village life. Sticks of tobacco (even if you don’t smoke, they are a form of local currency), bags of rice, sugar, salt, and cooking oil are all excellent and appropriate gifts. For children, items like pens, pencils, and notebooks are far better than sweets or money. The act of giving demonstrates that you come in peace and with a generous spirit.
Photography etiquette is extremely important. Never take a person’s photograph without asking for their explicit permission first. This is particularly true when it comes to photographing people in traditional dress during a sing-sing or a village ceremony. While many performers are happy to be photographed, it is a matter of basic respect to ask. A simple gesture towards your camera and a questioning look is often enough. In some cases, particularly at the major shows, a small payment may be expected for a posed photograph. Be sensitive to this, and always have some small denomination Kina notes handy. Never try to take photos surreptitiously; it is considered very rude.
Finally, be mindful of your dress and behavior. While PNG is a tropical country, modesty is valued. Both men and women should aim to dress conservatively, especially when in villages. Shorts are generally acceptable for men, but women will feel more comfortable and show more respect by wearing a skirt or loose trousers that cover the knees. Avoid wearing revealing clothing. Public displays of affection are not part of the culture and should be avoided. By being observant, following the lead of your guide, and approaching every interaction with a friendly smile and a humble attitude, you can navigate the intricate customs of PNG in a way that fosters mutual respect and positive connections.
Back to Top19) Basic Language Tips
While Papua New Guinea is home to over 850 languages, the one language that can bridge the communication gap across the entire country is Tok Pisin. It is one of the nation’s three official languages (along with English and Hiri Motu) and is the most widely spoken lingua franca. Learning a few essential phrases in Tok Pisin is not just a practical tool; it is a fundamental sign of respect. It shows that you are making an effort to connect with the people in their own common tongue, and this gesture will be immensely appreciated, opening doors to warmer and more authentic interactions wherever you go. English is spoken in business and government, but its use is very limited in villages and rural areas.
Tok Pisin is a creole language that derives most of its vocabulary from English, but its grammar is Melanesian. This makes some words sound familiar, but the meaning or usage can be different. For example, “lukim” looks like “look him,” but it means “to see.” “Haus” means house, and “sik” means sick, so a “haus sik” is a hospital. Once you get the hang of a few basic constructions, you can start to see the logic in the language. The sounds are generally phonetic, making it relatively easy to pronounce the words as they are written. Don’t worry about making mistakes; your attempts will be met with encouragement and friendly corrections.
Some of the most useful phrases are the basic greetings. “Moning” (morning) is a common “hello” in the morning, and “gude” (good day) or “apinun” (afternoon) can be used later in the day. The all-purpose “hello” is simply “gude.” To say thank you, you say “tenkyu,” which is very easy to remember. An even more polite and widely used version is “tenkyu tru,” which means “thank you very much.” If someone thanks you, the appropriate response is “orait,” which means “it’s alright” or “you’re welcome.” “Orait” is a very versatile word, also used to mean “okay” or “good.”
The table below provides a list of 20 key phrases in Tok Pisin that will be invaluable during your travels in Papua New Guinea. It is highly recommended to practice these before you go. Having these phrases at your disposal will not only help you with basic communication but will also demonstrate your respect for the country and its people. It’s a simple effort that will pay huge dividends in the form of smiles, laughter, and a more meaningful connection to this incredible place. Remember, a friendly “tenkyu tru” can go a very long way.
English | Tok Pisin |
---|---|
Hello / Good day | Gude |
Good morning | Moning |
Thank you | Tenkyu |
Thank you very much | Tenkyu tru |
You’re welcome / Okay | Orait |
What is your name? | Wanem nem bilong yu? |
My name is… | Nem bilong mi… |
Yes | Yes |
No | Nogat |
Goodbye | Lukim yu |
How are you? | Yu orait? |
I’m fine | Mi orait |
How much? | Hamas? |
Food | Kaikai |
Water | Wara |
Friend | Pren |
House | Haus |
Village | Ples |
I don’t know | Mi no save |
No problem | Nogat problem |
20) Useful Resources
Planning a trip to a destination as complex and challenging as Papua New Guinea requires reliance on high-quality, reliable, and up-to-date resources. The information you gather will be crucial for your safety, your budget, and the overall success of your journey. The first and most important resource for any prospective traveler should be their own government’s travel advisory service. Websites such as the U.S. Department of State, the UK’s Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO), or Australia’s Smartraveller provide the most current and authoritative advice on the security situation, health risks, and entry requirements. This information is non-negotiable and should be the foundation of any decision to travel.
The official tourism body for the country is the Papua New Guinea Tourism Promotion Authority (PNGTPA). Their website (papuanewguinea.travel) is the best official source for getting an overview of the country’s destinations, festivals, and attractions. It provides inspiration and general information about the different regions and what they have to offer. The site also has a directory of licensed tour operators, hotels, and lodges. Using a tour operator listed on the official tourism website is a good first step in finding a reputable company to handle your trip, as it indicates they are registered and recognized by the national tourism body.
Given the essential role of tour operators in PNG, their websites are a primary resource. The websites of long-established and highly regarded operators like Trans Niugini Tours, PNG Trekking Adventures, or Walindi Plantation Resort (for diving) are not just for booking; they are a wealth of detailed information. They provide sample itineraries, kit lists for trekking, photo galleries, and detailed descriptions of the regions they operate in. Reading through the offerings of several reputable companies will give you a realistic idea of what is possible, what things cost, and the level of comfort and safety you can expect. These operators have decades of on-the-ground experience and are the true experts in PNG travel.
Finally, for firsthand accounts and more candid advice, online travel forums can be useful, although the volume of information is lower than for more mainstream destinations. The Papua New Guinea forums on TripAdvisor and Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree can provide trip reports and answers to specific questions from the small community of travelers who have recently visited. However, always treat this information with a degree of caution and cross-reference it with official sources. A comprehensive and recently published guidebook can also be a valuable offline resource, particularly for its cultural and historical context. By combining official government advisories with the expertise of reputable tour operators and firsthand accounts, you can build a solid foundation for planning a safe and well-informed adventure to this incredible country.
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