Sao Tome & Principe Travel Guide
Table of Contents
1) Destination Overview
São Tomé & Príncipe, a tiny, two-island nation floating in the Gulf of Guinea off the coast of Central Africa, is a destination of sublime natural beauty and tranquil charm. Often dubbed “Africa’s Eden,” this archipelago is one of the continent’s best-kept secrets, offering a lush, tropical paradise for travelers seeking an escape far from the tourist crowds. The country consists of two main volcanic islands, São Tomé and Príncipe, which are surrounded by smaller islets. Their landscapes are dominated by emerald-green rainforests, dramatic volcanic peaks, and a coastline fringed with pristine, often deserted, golden-sand beaches. This is a place where time seems to slow down, governed by the gentle philosophy of “leve leve,” the local Creole expression for “take it easy.”
The islands’ history is deeply intertwined with the colonial era and the age of plantations. Discovered and settled by the Portuguese in the 15th century, São Tomé & Príncipe became a major hub for the sugar cane and, later, the cocoa and coffee trades, earning the nickname “The Chocolate Islands.” This history is etched into the landscape in the form of “roças,” old colonial plantations with their grand but decaying manor houses, slave quarters, and drying yards. Exploring these roças today, such as the famous Roça Agostinho Neto on São Tomé, is a poignant journey into the past, offering a glimpse into both the wealth and the hardship that defined the islands for centuries.
The true treasure of São Tomé & Príncipe is its extraordinary biodiversity. The islands have been isolated for millions of years, leading to the evolution of a remarkable number of endemic species of plants, birds, and animals found nowhere else on Earth. The vast Obo National Park, which covers a significant portion of both islands, protects this unique natural heritage. It is a hiker’s paradise, with trails winding through dense jungle to hidden waterfalls and cloud-forest-clad peaks. The smaller island of Príncipe is a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, a testament to its pristine environment and a model for sustainable ecotourism. It is a place where nature is not just a backdrop but the main attraction.
Today, São Tomé & Príncipe is a peaceful and stable democratic nation. The Santomean people are known for their warm, friendly, and welcoming nature, eager to share their unique Portuguese-Creole culture with visitors. The country offers a rare blend of African soul and Portuguese influence, visible in its language, music, and cuisine. A journey here is an immersion into a world of vibrant green jungles, volcanic wonders like the phonolithic tower of Pico Cão Grande, and the gentle rhythm of island life. It is an unforgettable adventure for the eco-conscious traveler, the nature lover, and anyone seeking a truly authentic and serene escape.
2) Best Time to Visit and Why
The best time to visit the equatorial paradise of São Tomé & Príncipe is during the main dry season, known locally as the “Gravana.” This season typically runs from June to September and offers the most idyllic weather conditions for a trip. During the Gravana, rainfall is minimal, the skies are generally clearer, and the humidity drops to its most comfortable level of the year. This makes it the perfect time for all the outdoor activities that the islands are famous for, from hiking in the dense rainforests of Obo National Park to lounging on the beautiful, secluded beaches that dot the coastline. The calmer seas during this period also make for more pleasant and reliable boat travel between the two main islands.
This June to September window is also ideal for wildlife enthusiasts. The drier trails make trekking to see the unique endemic birds and monkeys much easier and more enjoyable. It is also a prime time for marine life encounters. From July to October, humpback whales migrate through the waters around the islands, and the calmer seas of the Gravana provide the best opportunity for whale watching excursions. This season offers a fantastic combination of comfortable terrestrial exploration and exciting marine observation, making it the most popular time for ecotourism.
There is a second, shorter dry season called the “Gravanita,” which occurs from December to February. This is another excellent time to visit, with conditions that are very similar to the main dry season—lots of sunshine, low rainfall, and calm seas. This period is perfect for a tropical winter getaway. A major highlight of visiting during the Gravanita, particularly from November to March, is the sea turtle nesting season. The beaches of southern São Tomé, especially Praia Jalé, and several beaches on Príncipe become critical nesting sites for species like the green turtle, hawksbill, and leatherback. Witnessing these ancient creatures coming ashore to lay their eggs is a truly magical and unforgettable experience.
Conversely, the two rainy seasons are generally best avoided if your schedule allows. The main rainy season from March to May and the shorter one from October to November bring heavy, often prolonged, tropical downpours. The humidity during these months can be very high and oppressive. The rain can make hiking trails slippery and dangerous and can turn the islands’ unpaved roads into muddy tracks. While the rainforest is at its most vibrant during this time, the logistical challenges and the reduced number of sunny days for beach activities make it a less ideal time for most tourists. For the best all-around experience, sticking to the dry seasons of Gravana and Gravanita is highly recommended.
3) Top Destinations and Best Hotel
São Tomé & Príncipe’s top destinations are a testament to its “Africa’s Eden” nickname, offering a sublime mix of lush nature, volcanic wonders, and idyllic beaches. On the main island of São Tomé, the Obo National Park is a must-visit. This vast protected area covers the southern part of the island and is a biodiversity hotspot, home to countless endemic species. Trekkers can explore trails leading to stunning waterfalls like the Cascata São Nicolau, or for the truly adventurous, undertake the multi-day climb of Pico de São Tomé, the island’s highest peak. A more iconic, though unclimbable, peak is the Pico Cão Grande (Great Dog Peak). This dramatic, needle-like volcanic plug rises over 300 meters from the surrounding jungle, creating one of the most breathtaking and photogenic landscapes in Africa.
The coastline of São Tomé is dotted with beautiful beaches. In the south, Praia Jalé is a remote and pristine beach famous as a nesting ground for sea turtles. Small eco-lodges here allow visitors to witness this natural spectacle. In the north, near the capital, Praia dos Tamarindos and the iconic blue lagoon, Lagoa Azul, offer beautiful spots for swimming and snorkeling. A unique coastal feature is the Boca de Inferno (Hell’s Mouth), a dramatic sea arch where waves crash through a narrow channel, sending spectacular plumes of water into the air. Exploring the old colonial plantations, or “roças,” like the impressive Roça Agostinho Neto or the coffee-producing Roça Monte Café, provides a fascinating journey into the island’s history.
The smaller island of Príncipe is a destination in itself and arguably the jewel in the nation’s crown. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Príncipe is a world-class ecotourism destination. The island is almost entirely covered in pristine primary forest, part of its own Obo National Park. The beaches here are even more secluded and spectacular than on São Tomé. The world-famous Banana Beach (Praia Banana), with its perfect crescent of golden sand, is an iconic spot. Other incredible beaches include Praia Boi and Praia Macaco. The waters around Príncipe are crystal clear, offering fantastic opportunities for snorkeling, diving, and sport fishing. The small, sleepy capital of Santo António has a charming, timeless feel, with its pastel-colored colonial buildings.
Accommodation in São Tomé & Príncipe excels in the luxury eco-lodge category. On Príncipe, the undisputed top-tier options are managed by HBD Príncipe. Sundy Praia Lodge offers exquisite tented villas and is a member of the National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World. Their other property, Roça Sundy, allows guests to stay in a beautifully restored historic plantation house. On São Tomé, Pestana Equador Ilhéu das Rolas is located on a small islet on the equator and offers a unique resort experience. In the main city of São Tomé, the Pestana São Tomé is the largest and most reliable international-style hotel, offering great views and a large swimming pool.
4) Language & Culture
The culture of São Tomé & Príncipe is a rich and vibrant fusion of African roots and Portuguese colonial influence, creating a unique Creole identity that is central to the nation’s character. The official language is Portuguese, which is used in government, education, and all formal contexts. However, the true language of the people, spoken in homes and on the streets, is Forro, a Portuguese-based Creole language. Forro, along with other Creole variations spoken on Príncipe (Principense) and in Angola (Angolar), is the linguistic heartbeat of the nation. While knowing some Portuguese is very helpful for a traveler, learning a few phrases of Forro is a gesture of respect that is warmly welcomed by the local population.
This blend of African and European influences is most evident in the country’s music and dance. The rhythms of São Tomé & Príncipe are infectious and central to all celebrations. Popular styles include “socopé” and “danço-congo,” which are energetic, drum-based dances often accompanied by storytelling and theatrical performances. The “tchiloli” is another fascinating cultural expression, a form of street theater where performers in elaborate masks and costumes act out medieval European fables, a tradition that dates back to the 16th century. This unique performance art is a perfect example of the cultural syncretism that defines the islands.
The Santomean way of life is famously characterized by the philosophy of “leve leve.” This phrase, which literally translates to “lightly, lightly,” encapsulates a relaxed, laid-back, and unhurried approach to life. It is a cultural mindset that encourages taking things easy, not stressing, and appreciating the simple moments. For visitors accustomed to a fast-paced world, adapting to the “leve leve” pace can be an adjustment, but it is also one of the greatest charms of a trip to the islands. It encourages a slower, more mindful form of travel and a deeper connection with the tranquil environment and the friendly, easy-going nature of the Santomean people.
The family is the core of the social structure, and there is a strong sense of community and mutual support. The people are known for their warmth, hospitality, and friendliness towards visitors. Despite a history of hardship under the plantation system, there is a palpable sense of joy and resilience in the culture. This is expressed through the vibrant colors of the local markets, the ready smiles of the people, and the music that seems to be a constant, gentle backdrop to island life. Experiencing this unique Portuguese-African Creole culture is as much a highlight of a trip as exploring the stunning natural landscapes.
5) Festivals & Events
The cultural calendar of São Tomé & Príncipe is marked by a number of vibrant festivals and events that blend Christian traditions with African cultural expressions. These celebrations are a fantastic opportunity for visitors to experience the unique history, music, and community spirit of the islands. The most famous and spectacular of these events is the “Auto de Floripes,” held in the town of Santo António on the island of Príncipe. This unique festival, which takes place on August 15th each year, is a massive, day-long theatrical performance that re-enacts the historic battles between Christians and Moors.
The Auto de Floripes is a tradition that dates back centuries, and the entire community of Príncipe participates with incredible passion. The town is divided into two factions: the Christians, dressed in blue, and the Moors, dressed in red. Performers in elaborate, homemade costumes and masks act out scenes from the life of the Emperor Charlemagne, complete with dramatic sword fights, comedic interludes, and a grand procession through the streets. It is a captivating and colorful spectacle that draws spectators from both islands and is a powerful expression of the island’s unique history and cultural identity. It is the single most important festival in the country and well worth planning a trip around.
On the main island of São Tomé, important events are often tied to religious and national holidays. Independence Day, on July 12th, is a major national holiday celebrated with official ceremonies, parades, and cultural performances in the capital city, São Tomé. Another key date is the Feast of Saint São Tomé, the patron saint of the island, celebrated on December 21st with religious processions and community gatherings. Martyr’s Day on February 3rd is a more solemn occasion, commemorating the victims of the 1953 Batepá Massacre, a pivotal event in the struggle against colonial rule.
Music is a central part of any celebration in São Tomé & Príncipe. Throughout the year, and especially during holidays, you can find local communities celebrating with traditional music and dance. Events often feature performances of “socopé” or “danço-congo,” energetic dances accompanied by hypnotic drumming. While there are not many large-scale, regularly scheduled music festivals in the Western sense, the cultural centers in São Tomé city sometimes host concerts and events. The best way for a traveler to experience this vibrant culture is often to simply be present during a public holiday, when the “leve leve” spirit gives way to a more festive energy, and the streets come alive with the sounds and colors of Santomean celebration.
6) Local Cuisine
The cuisine of São Tomé & Príncipe is a delightful discovery for any food lover, a unique culinary tradition born from the islands’ tropical bounty and its Portuguese-African heritage. The food is based on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, with a strong emphasis on fish, tropical fruits, and a variety of starchy vegetables. Santomean cooking is not typically spicy; instead, it focuses on celebrating the natural, clean flavors of its ingredients, creating dishes that are both healthy and incredibly flavorful. The concept of farm-to-table (or more accurately, sea-to-table) is not a trend here; it is a way of life.
Given that it is an island nation, fish is the undisputed star of the local diet. A vast array of fish, from tuna and swordfish to smaller reef fish, is caught daily and forms the centerpiece of most meals. It is most commonly grilled over an open fire, seasoned simply with salt and lemon, and served with a variety of side dishes. A typical Santomean plate might feature a whole grilled fish accompanied by rice, fried bananas or breadfruit, and a simple salad. “Calulu” is another national specialty, a rich and complex stew made with smoked fish, shrimp, and a variety of vegetables and herbs, all slow-cooked in palm oil.
The islands are incredibly fertile, producing a wide range of tropical fruits and vegetables that are staples of the cuisine. Breadfruit, taro, and cassava are common starchy accompaniments, often boiled or fried. Bananas and plantains are used in countless ways, both savory and sweet. The country is also famous for its high-quality coffee and, most notably, its cocoa. A visit to a local plantation to see how these crops are grown and processed, followed by a tasting, is an essential culinary experience. São Tomé chocolate is some of the finest in the world, and it makes for a delicious souvenir.
For a truly special culinary experience, many restaurants and lodges on the islands offer tasting menus that showcase the full breadth of local ingredients. These multi-course meals might feature creative dishes using dozens of different local plants, fruits, and spices, offering a journey through the flavors of the rainforest and the sea. To drink, the national beer, Creola, is a popular choice. You can also find fresh fruit juices and traditional palm wine. Exploring the simple, fresh, and delicious cuisine of São Tomé & Príncipe is a highlight of any trip and a true taste of island life.
7) Transportation
Getting around the islands of São Tomé & Príncipe is part of the adventure, offering a glimpse into the relaxed, “leve leve” pace of local life. The transportation options are limited and straightforward, with no railways or complex public bus systems. Instead, travel relies on taxis, rental cars, and, most importantly, boats to connect the different parts of this island nation. Within the main city of São Tomé, taxis are the most common way for visitors to get around. They are typically yellow and can be found easily in the city center. It is important to note that taxis are not metered, so it is essential to negotiate and agree on the fare with the driver before you begin your journey.
For those who want the freedom and flexibility to explore the main island of São Tomé at their own pace, renting a vehicle is the best option. Several local companies in São Tomé city offer car rentals, with small 4×4 SUVs being the most practical choice. While the main roads connecting the north and south of the island are paved and generally in good condition, a 4×4 is highly recommended for exploring the unpaved tracks that lead to more remote beaches, waterfalls, and the entrance to Obo National Park. An international driving permit is recommended, and it is crucial to book your rental car in advance, especially during the peak dry season, as the number of available vehicles is limited.
To travel between the two main islands of São Tomé and Príncipe, you have two options: flying or taking a ferry. The quickest and most common method for tourists is to take a short domestic flight. STP Airways operates small propeller planes that make the 35-minute journey between the islands several times a week. This is a scenic and efficient way to travel, offering beautiful aerial views of the archipelago. It is essential to book these flights well in advance as they have limited capacity and can fill up quickly. A much less common and less reliable option is a weekly cargo ferry, which is a very slow and basic mode of transport used primarily by locals.
On the smaller and more remote island of Príncipe, transportation options are even more limited. There are very few rental cars available, and most visitors rely on pre-arranged transfers and guided tours provided by their lodge. Taxis can be found in the main town of Santo António for shorter journeys. For exploring the most beautiful and secluded beaches and coves of Príncipe, chartering a small local boat is the only way to go. This is often the highlight of a trip to the island, offering a chance to see the stunning coastline from the water and to find your own private piece of paradise.
8) Weather & Climate
São Tomé & Príncipe has a classic equatorial tropical climate, which is characterized by high temperatures and high humidity throughout the year. The weather patterns are dominated by the interplay between the ocean and the land, resulting in two distinct seasons: a long, pronounced dry season and a significant wet season. The temperature on the islands shows very little variation annually. In the coastal areas, where most people live and where most tourism is centered, average daytime temperatures consistently linger between 27°C (81°F) and 30°C (86°F). The ever-present sea breeze helps to moderate the heat, but visitors should be prepared for warm and humid conditions no matter when they travel.
The dry season, known as the “Gravana,” which lasts from June to September, is considered the optimal time for a visit. During these months, the islands experience a significant drop in rainfall, with many days being sunny and dry. The humidity also decreases, making the climate much more comfortable for outdoor activities such as hiking, exploring the roças, and relaxing on the beach. The calmer seas during the Gravana also make it the best time for boat travel, snorkeling, and diving. It’s the peak season for tourism for good reason, as it offers the most reliable and pleasant weather.
A second, shorter dry season, the “Gravanita,” occurs from December to February. This period also offers a welcome break from the rains, with plenty of sunshine and pleasant conditions, making it another excellent window for a trip. This season is particularly appealing for wildlife enthusiasts, as it coincides with the peak of the sea turtle nesting season, offering a chance for incredible nighttime encounters on the beaches of southern São Tomé and Príncipe. This combination of good weather and unique wildlife events makes it a very popular time for ecotourists.
The remainder of the year is classified as the wet season, with the heaviest rains falling from March to May and a shorter rainy period in October and November. During these months, downpours can be intense and prolonged, and the humidity can feel oppressive. While the rainforest is at its most lush and vibrant, the weather can pose significant challenges for travel. Hiking trails become muddy and slippery, and some unpaved roads may become difficult to navigate. For the most comfortable and logistically sound vacation, planning your visit during one of the two dry seasons is highly recommended.
| Season / Months | Average Temperature Range |
|---|---|
| Long Dry Season / Gravana (Jun – Sep) | 22°C – 28°C (72°F – 82°F) |
| Short Rainy Season (Oct – Nov) | 23°C – 29°C (73°F – 84°F) |
| Short Dry Season / Gravanita (Dec – Feb) | 24°C – 30°C (75°F – 86°F) |
| Long Rainy Season (Mar – May) | 24°C – 31°C (75°F – 88°F) |
9) Airports, International and Domestic Flight
São Tomé & Príncipe is served by one main international airport, São Tomé International Airport (TMS), located a short drive from the capital city, São Tomé. This small and relatively basic airport is the sole international gateway to the nation, handling all flights from Europe and the African mainland. The facilities are simple, but the arrival and departure process is generally straightforward and relaxed, in keeping with the island’s “leve leve” spirit. It is essential for travelers to have their visa (if required for their nationality) and yellow fever certificate ready for inspection by immigration officials upon arrival.
The number of airlines flying to São Tomé is very limited, which contributes to the country’s exclusive and off-the-beaten-path feel. The primary and most reliable route for travelers coming from Europe is operated by TAP Air Portugal, which offers regular direct flights from Lisbon (LIS). This is the main artery for tourism and business travel to the islands. Another key carrier is TAAG Angola Airlines, which connects São Tomé with Luanda, Angola. Regionally, STP Airways, the national airline, and other carriers like ASKY Airlines provide connections to other African cities, such as Libreville in Gabon and Accra in Ghana. Due to the infrequency of these flights, it is crucial to book international travel well in advance.
For travel between the two main islands, domestic flights are the most practical and efficient option. STP Airways operates the crucial route between São Tomé (TMS) and Príncipe Airport (PCP). These flights are operated using small turboprop aircraft and the journey is a short and scenic 35-minute hop over the Atlantic. The schedule is limited, with flights typically operating several times a week rather than daily. Because the aircraft are small and the demand from both tourists and locals can be high, it is absolutely essential to book these inter-island flights as far in advance as possible to secure a seat, especially during the peak dry seasons.
Príncipe Airport (PCP) is a very small airstrip that serves the pristine island of Príncipe. The airport facilities are minimal, reflecting the island’s low volume of traffic and its focus on sustainable, low-impact tourism. Upon arrival in Príncipe, transportation to the island’s few exclusive lodges is typically pre-arranged as part of the accommodation booking. The entire air travel experience to and within São Tomé & Príncipe is a reminder of its remoteness and charm, requiring careful planning and a flexible attitude from all who wish to visit this unique archipelago.
10) Back Up Plan and Flight Route
Given São Tomé & Príncipe’s remote location and its reliance on a very limited number of flight routes, having a solid backup plan is a critical part of travel preparation. The infrequency of flights means that a single cancellation or significant delay can have a major impact on your itinerary. The most fundamental part of any backup plan is to have comprehensive travel insurance. Your policy must provide robust coverage for trip cancellation, interruption, and delays. This ensures that if you are forced to rebook flights or pay for extra nights of accommodation due to circumstances beyond your control, you will be financially protected.
The primary flight route for most international visitors is the TAP Air Portugal service from Lisbon. This is the most frequent and reliable connection. Your backup plan should involve being aware of the other, less frequent routes, such as those through Luanda (TAAG Angola Airlines) or other regional West African hubs like Accra (ASKY Airlines). While these are not always practical alternatives for a last-minute change, knowing they exist can be helpful. When booking, it’s always best to purchase your entire journey on a single ticket if possible, as this makes the airline responsible for rebooking you in the event of a missed connection.
The most important and practical backup strategy is to build flexibility and buffer time into your travel schedule. Do not plan any critical, non-refundable activities or inter-island transfers for the day you are scheduled to arrive. It is highly recommended to give yourself at least one full day in São Tomé city after your international arrival to account for any delays and to acclimatize. The same logic is even more critical for your departure. You should plan to be back on the main island of São Tomé at least one full day, preferably two, before your international flight home. Relying on the inter-island flight on the same day as your departure flight is extremely risky and could easily result in missing your long-haul flight home.
Your local contacts, such as your hotel or tour operator, are your best on-the-ground resource for dealing with any disruptions. Keep their contact information accessible and inform them immediately of any changes to your travel plans. They can assist with rebooking local arrangements and provide advice. It is also wise to carry an emergency fund in cash (Euros are best) to cover unexpected expenses. In a destination where “leve leve” (take it easy) is the philosophy, a patient attitude, combined with smart planning and a financial safety net, is the key to a stress-free experience.
| Route Type | Description & Key Considerations |
|---|---|
| Primary International Route | Fly into São Tomé (TMS) via Lisbon (LIS) with TAP Air Portugal. This is the most direct and frequent route for most international travelers. |
| Regional Hub Route | Connect through other African hubs like Luanda (LAD) with TAAG Angola Airlines or Accra (ACC) with ASKY Airlines. These can be alternatives but are less frequent. |
| Inter-Island Flight | The domestic flight between São Tomé (TMS) and Príncipe (PCP) on STP Airways is essential for visiting Príncipe. Must be booked far in advance. |
| Essential Contingency Plan | Purchase comprehensive travel insurance. Build buffer days at the start and end of your trip, especially around the inter-island flight. Carry emergency cash (Euros). |
11) Safety & Health
São Tomé & Príncipe is widely regarded as one of the safest countries in all of Africa, making it a relaxing and worry-free destination for travelers. The country has a stable political environment and a very low crime rate. The famous “leve leve” (take it easy) culture contributes to a peaceful and non-confrontational atmosphere. Violent crime is extremely rare, and the Santomean people are known for their honesty, warmth, and hospitality towards foreigners. Visitors can feel comfortable walking around the streets of São Tomé city, even after dark, though it is always wise to take sensible precautions as you would anywhere.
The main safety considerations for travelers are minor and related to general awareness. It is prudent to take care of your belongings in crowded places like the central market to prevent opportunistic petty theft, though even this is uncommon. When exploring the natural landscape, the primary risks are environmental. Be cautious when swimming in the ocean, as some beaches can have strong currents. If hiking in Obo National Park, it is advisable to go with a local guide who knows the trails, which can be slippery and steep, especially after rain. These simple, common-sense measures are generally all that is required for a safe and secure trip.
Health preparations are a more critical aspect of planning a trip to this tropical destination. The most significant health risk is malaria, which is present throughout the country. It is essential to consult with a travel medicine specialist well before your trip to obtain a prescription for anti-malarial medication. In addition to prophylaxis, you must be diligent about preventing mosquito bites by using a strong insect repellent containing DEET, wearing long-sleeved clothing in the evenings, and sleeping under a mosquito net. A yellow fever vaccination is also required for entry, so you must carry your yellow card (International Certificate of Vaccination) with you.
Medical facilities on the islands are very basic and limited. There is a main hospital in São Tomé city, but it is not equipped to handle serious medical emergencies. For any major health issue, medical evacuation to Europe would be required. This makes it absolutely mandatory for all visitors to have comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency medical evacuation coverage. It is also important to drink only bottled or purified water and to practice good food hygiene to avoid any stomach upsets. By being well-prepared with vaccinations, malaria prevention, and proper insurance, you can confidently enjoy a healthy and safe journey in this beautiful island nation.
12) Currency, Commodities & Costs
The official currency of São Tomé & Príncipe is the Dobra. In 2018, the currency was redenominated at a rate of 1000 to 1, creating the New Dobra (STN). While the old notes (STD) are no longer in circulation, the new currency maintains a fixed exchange rate with the Euro. This peg is set at €1 = 24.5 STN. This fixed rate provides price stability and makes it very easy for travelers carrying Euros to understand costs. Due to this relationship, the Euro is widely accepted for larger transactions, especially at hotels, with tour operators, and for services like car rentals. However, for smaller day-to-day purchases like food at local restaurants, taxis, and items in the market, it is essential to have and use the local Dobra currency.
São Tomé & Príncipe is almost entirely a cash economy. This is a critical piece of information for any traveler. Credit cards are not accepted almost anywhere, with the rare exception of one or two of the most high-end international hotels in the capital. You should not plan on using a credit card for any payments. Furthermore, ATMs are extremely scarce and highly unreliable. While there are a few machines in São Tomé city, they frequently do not work, are out of cash, or do not accept foreign cards. It is absolutely essential to arrive in the country with enough cash to cover the entire duration of your trip. The best currency to bring is Euros, as they are easily exchanged and sometimes accepted directly.
The cost of travel in São Tomé & Príncipe can be surprisingly high, particularly when compared to other West African nations. This is largely due to the country’s isolation and its reliance on imported goods for almost everything, from fuel to consumer products. The logistics of operating in this remote environment mean that the costs of tourism services are elevated. The most significant expenses for a traveler will be accommodation, inter-island flights, and guided activities or tours. A night at a mid-range hotel or a comfortable eco-lodge can be expensive, and private boat charters or guided treks will add substantially to the budget.
Daily costs for food and local transport can be more reasonable. A meal at a local Santomean restaurant can be enjoyed for a modest price, and taxis within the city are not prohibitively expensive. However, a traveler seeking Western-style comforts and participating in organized ecotourism activities should budget accordingly. A comfortable mid-range trip, including a visit to Príncipe, could realistically cost between $200 and $350 USD per person per day. This is not a budget backpacking destination, and careful financial planning is required to fully enjoy all that this exclusive and pristine archipelago has to offer.
| Item / Service | Estimated Cost (STN / EUR) |
|---|---|
| Mid-range hotel room (per night) | 1,800 – 3,000 STN (€75 – €125) |
| Meal at a local restaurant | 150 – 300 STN (€6 – €12) |
| Local beer (Creola) | 25 – 40 STN (€1 – €1.60) |
| Taxi ride in São Tomé city | 75 – 150 STN (€3 – €6) |
| Car rental (4×4, per day) | 1,500 – 2,000 STN (€60 – €80) |
| Flight from São Tomé to Príncipe (one way) | ~2,500 – 3,500 STN (€100 – €140) |
13) Housing Rental Cost
The market for long-term housing rental in São Tomé & Príncipe is very small, informal, and primarily geared towards the small community of expatriates working for international organizations, development agencies, and a handful of foreign-owned businesses. For tourists and short-term visitors, renting an apartment or house is not a practical or common option. The country’s accommodation infrastructure for travelers is based entirely on its hotels, guesthouses, and eco-lodges. Therefore, any visitor planning a trip should focus their efforts on booking this type of temporary accommodation rather than researching the rental market.
For those considering a longer stay for professional reasons, finding housing can be a challenge that relies heavily on local contacts and word-of-mouth. There are very few formal real estate agencies. Most expatriates find accommodation through networks provided by their employer or by asking around in the community. The available properties are mostly concentrated in the capital, São Tomé city, and its immediate surroundings. The housing stock consists mainly of standalone houses or apartments within small buildings. The quality can vary significantly, from modern, newly-built units to older colonial-era properties that may require maintenance.
Rental prices, while not as high as in major global capitals, can be expensive relative to the local economy, especially for properties that meet expatriate standards for comfort and security. A modern, secure two or three-bedroom apartment in a decent neighborhood of São Tomé city might cost between €500 and €1,000 per month. A larger standalone house with a garden could range from €1,000 to over €2,000 per month. Prices are almost always quoted and paid in Euros. It is common for landlords to require a security deposit and several months of rent to be paid in advance, which can represent a significant initial outlay.
The availability of modern amenities like reliable electricity, running water, and internet can be a major factor in the cost and desirability of a property. Many higher-end rentals will have their own backup generators and water tanks to compensate for the often-unreliable public utilities. The informal nature of the market means that having a clear, written lease agreement is important, though not always standard practice. The entire process underscores why this market is the domain of long-term residents, while visitors enjoy the much simpler and more accessible services of the hospitality industry.
| Housing Type & Location | Estimated Monthly Rental Cost (EUR) |
|---|---|
| 1-2 Bedroom Apartment (São Tomé City) | €400 – €800 |
| 3-Bedroom House (São Tomé City) | €900 – €1,800 |
| Secure House with Generator | €1,500 – €2,500+ |
| Condominiums / Modern Apartment Complexes | Very limited, would fall at the highest end of the apartment price range. |
14) Cost of Living
For the small expatriate community residing in São Tomé & Príncipe, the cost of living is considerably higher than one might expect from a small African island nation. This elevated cost is a direct result of the country’s isolation and its heavy dependence on imported goods. Almost all consumer products, from fuel and vehicles to a wide variety of food items and household goods, must be shipped or flown in. The associated freight and import costs are passed on to the consumer, making the price of living a Western-style life much more expensive than in Europe or North America.
Groceries are a major and recurring expense for foreign residents. While local produce like bananas, breadfruit, and fresh fish from the market can be very affordable, a shopping basket filled with imported items from the few supermarkets in São Tomé city will be costly. Products like milk, cheese, yogurt, breakfast cereals, wine, and quality meats are all imported and sold at a significant premium. This often forces expatriates to blend their shopping habits, relying on local markets for fresh items and using supermarkets for specific imported goods they consider essential.
Utilities and services also contribute significantly to the monthly budget. The public electricity grid can be unreliable, especially outside the capital’s center, leading many households to invest in and run private generators. The cost of imported diesel fuel to power these generators is a major expense. Similarly, while telecommunications have improved, high-speed and reliable internet service is expensive compared to global standards. For families, education is another key cost, with the International School of São Tomé being the primary option for an English-language curriculum, and its fees are a major financial commitment.
The cost of owning and running a vehicle is also high due to the price of imported cars, spare parts, and fuel. While the country is small, a vehicle is often necessary for getting around comfortably. Healthcare is another area of concern, as facilities are basic, and comprehensive health insurance with medical evacuation coverage is a must-have, adding another significant monthly expense. In conclusion, while a tourist can manage a visit on a carefully planned budget, a long-term resident will find the cost of living to be a constant financial challenge, requiring a substantial income to maintain a comfortable standard of living.
| Expense Category | Estimated Monthly / Annual Cost (EUR) |
|---|---|
| International School Fees (per child) | €6,000 – €12,000+ per year |
| Groceries (Expat-style, family) | €700 – €1,200 per month |
| Utilities (Electricity & Generator Fuel) | €150 – €400 per month |
| High-Speed Internet | €80 – €150 per month |
| Health Insurance (Family, with medevac) | €500 – €1,000 per month |
15) Shopping & Souvenirs
Shopping for souvenirs in São Tomé & Príncipe is a charming and authentic experience, focused on high-quality local products and traditional handicrafts rather than mass-produced trinkets. The most famous and delicious souvenir to bring home is undoubtedly the country’s world-renowned chocolate. Once known as “The Chocolate Islands,” São Tomé has a long history of producing some of the finest cocoa in the world. A visit to a producer like Claudio Corallo offers a fascinating insight into the bean-to-bar process and the chance to taste and buy exceptional, single-origin chocolate with unique flavors. High-quality coffee from plantations like Roça Monte Café is another excellent and aromatic souvenir.
For those interested in traditional arts and crafts, the Mercado Municipal (Central Market) in São Tomé city is the best place to explore. Here, amidst the vibrant stalls selling fresh produce and fish, you can find local artisans selling their wares. Look for intricate wood carvings, which often depict local wildlife and scenes from island life. Baskets and hats woven from palm fronds and other natural fibers are both beautiful and practical souvenirs. You can also find colorful textiles and clothing made from vibrant African wax-print fabrics.
Art galleries in São Tomé city also offer a more curated selection of local art. These galleries showcase the work of Santomean painters and sculptors, whose art often reflects the islands’ lush landscapes, unique culture, and complex history. Buying a piece of art is a wonderful way to support the local creative community and to bring home a truly unique memento of your trip. Some of the eco-lodges, particularly on Príncipe, also have small gift shops that sell high-quality, locally made crafts, ensuring that the proceeds benefit the local communities directly.
Beyond art and food, other potential souvenirs include locally produced coconut oil, which is renowned for its quality, and bottles of the local rum or palm wine for the more adventurous. Bargaining is not a major part of the culture in the same way it is in other parts of Africa, but for handicrafts in the market, a bit of friendly negotiation is acceptable. The best souvenirs from São Tomé & Príncipe are those that tell the story of the islands—their fertile land, their rich history, and the creativity of their people. Taking home a taste of their chocolate or a piece of their art is the perfect way to remember this unique and beautiful nation.
16) Nightlife & Entertainment
The nightlife and entertainment scene in São Tomé & Príncipe is a perfect reflection of the national motto, “leve leve” (take it easy). It is a low-key, relaxed, and deeply authentic experience, centered around music, socializing, and enjoying the pleasant tropical evenings. There are no large, flashy nightclubs or sprawling entertainment complexes. Instead, the nightlife is composed of a handful of local bars, restaurants that turn into social hubs, and informal beach gatherings. The capital city, São Tomé, is where most of the activity is concentrated, offering a welcoming and safe environment for a night out.
The heart of the Santomean nightlife can be found in the city’s small, lively bars, especially on weekends. These venues are where locals and the small expatriate community come together to unwind. The atmosphere is always friendly and convivial. Music is a constant and essential part of the experience, with a soundtrack that blends local styles like socopé with rhythms from across the Lusophone world, such as Kizomba from Angola and Funaná from Cape Verde. Some bars may feature live bands playing these infectious rhythms, which are guaranteed to get people dancing.
Many of the city’s restaurants also double as evening entertainment spots. After dinner service winds down, these venues often keep their bars open, turning into relaxed lounges where patrons can enjoy drinks and conversation late into the evening. Along the waterfront in São Tomé, several open-air restaurants and bars provide a beautiful setting for a night out, with the sound of the ocean as a backdrop. On the island of Príncipe, the nightlife is even more tranquil, typically revolving around the bars and restaurants of the exclusive eco-lodges, where guests can enjoy a cocktail while listening to the sounds of the surrounding rainforest.
For a truly local experience, look out for informal beach parties or community celebrations, especially around public holidays. These events are a vibrant explosion of music, dance, and food, offering a wonderful opportunity to see the Santomean spirit of celebration in full swing. Overall, the entertainment in São Tomé & Príncipe is not about high-octane excitement but about connection. It’s about sharing a drink, enjoying the music, and engaging in friendly conversation in a safe and beautiful setting. It is the perfect antidote to the fast-paced nightlife of the modern world.
17) Insider Travel Tips
To truly unlock the magic of São Tomé & Príncipe, it helps to go in with a few insider tips that allow you to connect more deeply with the islands’ unique rhythm and culture. The first and most important is to fully embrace the national philosophy of “leve leve.” This means “take it easy,” and it governs the pace of everything. Do not expect things to run on a strict schedule. Be prepared for leisurely service in restaurants and potential delays in transport. Instead of seeing this as a frustration, view it as an invitation to slow down, relax, and savor the moment. Patience and a flexible attitude are not just helpful; they are essential for enjoying your trip.
A great practical tip is to bring a waterproof dry bag. With a tropical climate, rain showers can appear unexpectedly, even in the dry season. A dry bag is invaluable for protecting your camera, phone, and other electronics, whether you are hiking to a waterfall, riding in an open boat, or simply get caught in a downpour while exploring. It’s a small piece of gear that can save you a lot of potential hassle and expense, ensuring your precious memories and devices stay safe and dry throughout your adventure.
To get a real taste of the islands, make a point of visiting the local markets, especially the Mercado Municipal in São Tomé city. This is the vibrant heart of the capital. Go in the morning when it’s at its busiest to see the incredible variety of fresh fish, exotic fruits, and local vegetables. It’s a fantastic place for photography and for observing daily life. Be brave and try some of the local snacks sold by vendors. This is where you’ll find the true flavors of the island, far from the tourist-oriented restaurants. Always ask before taking close-up photos of people, but most will be happy to oblige with a smile.
Finally, while the main beaches are beautiful, seek out the more remote and hidden coves. The best way to do this, particularly on Príncipe, is to hire a local fisherman with a small boat for a day trip. They know the coastline better than anyone and can take you to secluded beaches that are completely inaccessible by land. Pack a picnic and some snorkeling gear, and you can spend a day discovering your own private paradise. These spontaneous, locally-guided excursions are often the most memorable and authentic experiences of a trip to São Tomé & Príncipe.
18) Etiquette & Customs
When traveling in São Tomé & Príncipe, observing local etiquette and customs is a key part of having a respectful and enriching experience. The culture is a warm blend of African and Portuguese influences, and social interactions are generally relaxed and friendly. However, being mindful of a few key customs will be greatly appreciated by the local Santomean people. The most fundamental aspect of etiquette is the importance of greetings. It is considered polite to greet people before engaging in any conversation or transaction. A simple “Bom dia” (Good morning), “Boa tarde” (Good afternoon), or “Boa noite” (Good evening) is the standard and should be offered with a smile.
Politeness and respect, particularly for elders, are highly valued in Santomean society. When you are introduced to someone or when you meet an older person, a handshake is the common form of greeting. It is important to show deference to your elders, and taking a moment to chat with them is a sign of good manners. The overall pace of life is “leve leve” (slowly, slowly), and this extends to social interactions. Rushing or showing impatience can be seen as rude. Taking your time, speaking calmly, and being patient are all appreciated qualities.
When it comes to dress, a conservative and modest approach is appropriate, especially when away from the beach. While shorts and t-shirts are acceptable for general sightseeing, it is respectful to cover your shoulders and knees when visiting churches or interacting with communities in more rural areas. Beachwear should be confined to the beach or your hotel’s pool area. Toplessness is not culturally acceptable. By dressing thoughtfully, you show respect for the local, more traditional values.
Asking for permission before taking photographs of people is a crucial sign of respect. While many Santomeans are happy to be photographed, it is polite to ask first. A simple gesture with your camera and a questioning look is often enough. If someone declines, respect their wishes. Also, be aware that when visiting the more traditional communities in the Bijagós Archipelago in Guinea-Bissau (often combined in tours), there are sacred sites and objects that should not be touched or photographed. Always follow the guidance of your local guide in these situations. By being mindful and respectful, you will be welcomed with open arms into the warm and hospitable culture of São Tomé & Príncipe.
19) Basic Language Tips
While Portuguese is the official language of São Tomé & Príncipe, learning a few phrases of the local Portuguese-Creole, known as Forro, can greatly enhance your travel experience. The Santomean people are incredibly friendly, and they will be delighted by any attempt you make to speak their language. It’s a wonderful way to break the ice and show your respect for the local culture. The pronunciation is generally softer than European Portuguese. Even if you only master a few basic greetings, your efforts will be met with warm smiles and encouragement.
The most important phrases to learn are greetings. “Bom dia” for “Good morning,” “Boa tarde” for “Good afternoon,” and “Boa noite” for “Good evening” are standard Portuguese and widely understood. In Forro, you might also hear “Seja bem-vindo,” which means “Welcome.” A very common and friendly way to ask “How are you?” in Forro is “Tudo bem?” (Is everything good?) or “Leve leve?” (Taking it easy?). A great response to this is “Tudo fixe” (Everything’s cool) or simply “Leve leve” back to them with a smile.
Politeness is key in Santomean culture. “Por favor” for “Please” and “Obrigado” (if you’re male) or “Obrigada” (if you’re female) for “Thank you” are essential. A common local way to say thank you is “Estamos juntos,” which literally means “we are together” and conveys a sense of solidarity and appreciation. To apologize or get someone’s attention, you can say “Com licença” (Excuse me). The words for “yes” and “no” are “Sim” and “Não,” respectively.
For practical situations, knowing a few extra phrases can be very helpful. “Quanto custa?” means “How much does it cost?”. To get the bill in a restaurant, you can say “A conta, por favor.” If you need help, you can say “Pode ajudar-me?” (Can you help me?). While many people in the tourism industry have a basic grasp of English or French, relying on these languages will limit your interactions. Taking a few moments to learn these simple phrases in Portuguese and Forro will open up a world of more authentic and memorable connections with the wonderful people of São Tomé & Príncipe.
| English | Portuguese / Forro Creole |
|---|---|
| Hello / Good morning | Bom dia |
| Good afternoon | Boa tarde |
| How are you? | Tudo bem? / Leve leve? |
| I’m fine / Everything’s cool. | Tudo fixe / Leve leve. |
| Please | Por favor |
| Thank you | Obrigado / Obrigada |
| We are together (Thank you) | Estamos juntos |
| Yes | Sim |
| No | Não |
| Excuse me | Com licença |
| My name is… | Meu nome é… |
| I don’t understand | Não percebo / Não entendo |
| How much does it cost? | Quanto custa? |
| The bill, please | A conta, por favor |
| Water | Água |
| Beer | Cerveja |
| Delicious! | Muito bom! / Delicioso! |
| Goodbye | Adeus / Tchau |
| Welcome | Seja bem-vindo |
| Take it easy | Leve leve |
20) Useful Resources
Planning a trip to the remote and beautiful nation of São Tomé & Príncipe requires a bit of research, as it remains a destination with a developing tourism profile. While you won’t find the overwhelming number of resources available for more mainstream locations, there are several excellent sources of information that can help you plan an unforgettable journey. The websites of specialized tour operators and eco-lodges are often the most valuable resources, providing practical information and a glimpse into the types of experiences available.
One of the best online resources is the website for HBD Príncipe (hbdprincipe.com). As the leading force in sustainable tourism on the island of Príncipe, their site is a treasure trove of information not just about their world-class lodges (like Sundy Praia and Roça Sundy), but also about the conservation projects, biodiversity, and culture of Príncipe. It provides a comprehensive look at what makes the island so special and is essential reading for anyone planning to visit the smaller of the two main islands. Other lodge websites, like that of Ponta Anchaca on Rubane island, can also offer insights into activities like sport fishing and diving.
For flight information, the official websites of the airlines that serve the country are your primary source. The TAP Air Portugal website is the main resource for booking international flights from Europe, while the STP Airways website is crucial for booking the essential inter-island flight between São Tomé and Príncipe. It is important to check these sites directly for the most accurate and up-to-date schedules. For broader travel advice and firsthand accounts, travel blogs from those who have recently visited can be very insightful, offering practical tips on everything from car rentals to restaurant choices.
Finally, a good guidebook is an invaluable companion for providing historical and cultural context. The Bradt Guide to São Tomé & Príncipe is widely considered the most comprehensive and detailed English-language guidebook available. Even if some practical details change over time, its in-depth information on the islands’ history, the old roças, the unique flora and fauna of Obo National Park, and the local culture is essential for a deeper understanding and appreciation of the destination. Combining the practical information from tour operators with the rich context from a guidebook will ensure you are well-prepared for your adventure in “Africa’s Eden.”
